Tuesday, January 19, 2021
2021 Here we come!
As we put 2020 behind us we look forward to a new season ahead. So far January has been very busy with curbside pickups, deliveries and renovations. Our official open date is March 1st but we will be offering curbside pickup and delivery all winter! Our online store will be undergoing construction soon to help improve our site. If you find the online store down, just call or email us with your order. We will be starting to get our spring orders soon! We have doubled our seed order this year! Watch for seeds on our online store in early February. Other exciting arrivals are new indoor ceramic pots, succulents, tropicals, organic gardening products, seed starting kits and much more! Currently any of our 2020 giftware, jewellery, bird feeders, indoor containers and houseplants are 25% OFF! We also have the new 2021 Prairie Garden Book back in stock! We carry Winnipeg's largest selection of The Prairie Garden Books! The back issues are 15% OFF till the end of the month! Check out our online store - jensennurserygiftshop.com. For lot's of pictures of new arrivals check us out on social media!
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Monday, September 14, 2020
Fall Gardening Tips and Tricks
Fall is an especially important time for your gardens. It is a great time to make changes and take a few steps that will ensure your garden looks great next spring. Throughout September and October, the soil’s temperature is still warm enough that transplanted and newly planted plants can still establish themselves.
It is a great time to add some more color to your garden or containers. Annual Fall Chrysanthemums are an excellent way to add some color to those annual areas that are looking tired.
Now is the time to relocate plants that are in the wrong spot. If that perennial is hidden in the back behind everything else, move it up front where it can be seen. Are your Hostas in too much sun? Or a rose bush in too much shade? Now is the time to move them. When transplanting plants, it is a great idea to apply Myke Root Supplement around the roots. This will give them an extra boost.
Perennials should be divided when they are overgrown. Dividing a perennial when it is not doing well will result in poor establishment. Some perennials will start to die out in the center of the mass. This is a sure sign it is time to divide. This is quite common among grasses, irises and sedum. Most perennials can be divided in fall or spring. As a rule of thumb divide spring and early summer flowering varieties in the fall and fall flowering varieties in the spring. If you are willing to sacrifice some blooms you can divide most fall flowering varieties now.
The following is a brief outline of how to divide your perennials.
* Dig out the perennial in question using a spade, at the plant’s drip line - where the leaves end.
* Clean off the larger chunks of soil, looking for insects and signs of disease.
* Using a sharp knife (an old steak knife works great) cut the perennials into several divisions. Each new plant should contain two to four eyes (new buds).
This will give you a nice size plant in the spring.
* Now replant the new sections. Adding some organic matter such as peat moss and manure around the new plants is an excellent idea, as well as using Myke
Root Supplement
Root Supplement
* Water the plants thoroughly once planted.
Fall is an excellent time to plant new shrubs, trees and perennials. The temperatures are not as extreme as they are in the summer months. This will allow for less transplant shock. Again, using Myke's Root Supplement is very beneficial with new plantings.
September and October are the best months to clean up the shrub beds and add amendments to the soil. This will help get them ready for spring. Keeping shrub beds and gardens free of weeds will limit the number of seeds and roots that will over winter and start growing next spring. Also having a clean shrub beds and gardens will reduce the number of pests and diseases that will over winter.
In late October it is essential to mulch your perennials and shrubs. This will help them over winter. We suggest the use of GARDEN STRAW. This comes as a clean, weed, pest and disease-free product. It will help protect those tender perennials as well as keep moisture in the ground.
It is also essential to protect your plant from wildlife. Bunnies, deer and mice love to feed on your shrubs and trees over winter. This can severely damage or even kill some plants. For example, an apple tree that has been chewed around the trunk will not regrow in the spring. One of the best methods of protecting your trees and shrubs is to apply SKOOT in late fall. (available in October) This is a repellent that will repel deer and rabbits. Skoot can be applied to trees, shrubs, and evergreens. Remember to spray high enough to account for the winter’s snow fall. As an extra measure using one or two tree guards around a tree’s trunk is also recommended.
Finally, remember to clean out your annual containers in late fall to remove some of the soil, to prepare for a winter arrangement. This will allow you to place a winter arrangement insert into the pot. In early November we switch out our front door décor to winter arrangements. Removing approximately 15” soil from the pot easily allows you to place an insert into the pot. Using an insert allows you to make your arrangement in the comfort of your house or pick up one of our custom-made pots.
Best Wishes & Happy Fall
Susan Jensen Stubbe
Jensen Nursery and Garden Center.
Saturday, June 08, 2019
Cottage Gardens
“Cottage Garden” style is relaxed, colorful, scented, fun and almost no rules should apply, whimsy. The best thing about cottage gardens, .. there is always room to squeeze more plants in - use hanging baskets & window boxes.
Tips for Creating a Cottage Garden
Keep it small, lol.
You need a good mix of plants, native plants / sturdy plants / deer & rabbit resistance.
Avoid straight lines, gardens & paths should be winding.
Start by planting large clumps of like flowers/plants. Tulips, daisies, allium, coneflowers, sage …
Repeat both plants and colors, to create a flow and harmony.
Tall plants add archetypal (spikes); scatter liberally through the borders; hollyhock, lupins, foxglove, wisteria, catmint, delphinium, phlox, grasses.
Invest in Good Soil
Water source via soaker hose, rain barrels, ? .... check out these cool new pots in our shop “DESERT “ Pots
The right plant in the right place - aka full shade .. to full sun etc.,
Select sturdy garden plants, spring-flowering bulbs, purple coneflower, Irises, wild indigo, Stella d’oro or happy returns daylilies, asters, Russian sage, an old fashion rose climber, peonies…, for foliage interest try blue fescue, lambs ear,
Don't forget scents, honeysuckles, roses, peonies, rosemary, mock-orange and lavender.
Create a special place to sit and enjoy the garden.
Need help ASK US, …
Monday, June 25, 2018
Astilbes for the Shade Garden
SHADE PLANT FEATURE: Astible
Growing Tip: Astibles benefit from a bit of protection to get them through the severe winters, a fine layer of mulch, such as chopped leaves or straw.
Astilbe is a tall, summertime bloomer that adds interest and texture to the garden even after the pink, white or red flowers have dried up and turned brown.
Their leaf foliage is feathery and clumps at the base of the plant.
The heights vary depending on kind, 15 inches to 30 inches.
Deer do not particularly like them.
Growing Tip: Astibles benefit from a bit of protection to get them through the severe winters, a fine layer of mulch, such as chopped leaves or straw.
Wednesday, May 09, 2018
Step into our Paradise!
Don’t get fooled by Mother nature, be cautious of planting annuals now and til the beginning of June & don’t worry about those perennials being slow - gardening requires patience, … but do get busy with your Garden’s clean-up to do list, turning and raking the soil, mixing in some good soil nutrients and mulch / compost.
STEP INSIDE our green house and you will be inspired by the display of flower colours & leaf textures. You will find your ole favourites & some new lovely annuals. Get inspired to create your own containers by seeing what the greenhouse elves have been up to; you can bring in your pots and plant them up in side our greenhouse or leave your pots with us and request a custom planting. Our tabletops are full with hundreds of plants and the walkways are lined with hanging pots and ground containers readily filled and waiting for your deck.
TRENDING ….. “Tropical plants & Grasses”; for that a dramatic look (Thriller): they can provide an immediate lush green to any entrance way & will thrive outdoors in our summers. The tropical plants can be brought into your house in fall but first must be sprayed for bugs.
Eg: Big elephant ears, ivies, ferns, palm tree, succulents & catus, hibiscus, numerous grasses, cannas, climbing vines …..
Monday, April 16, 2018
Spring and your evergreens
One of the first signs of how tough the winter has been is the color of our evergreens. A lot of the cedars, spruce and pines around the city are a lovely shade of brown. Most people’s first reaction is that the plant is dead. This is most likely not the case. The buds for this years growth will still be alive, they are just waiting for some heat to start growing. Once the new growth flushes out it will cover up the brown needles. To help the process along you need to start fertilizing and watering your evergreens as soon as the snow is gone. A fertilizer that is high in Nitrogen (the first number on the formula) is the best. An Evergreen Food with the formula 30-10-10 is an excellent source of nitrogen. Soak the soil that is around the plant to feed the roots. For best results apply the fertilizer every two weeks throughout May and June. As an extra boost you can also spray the foliage with Organique’s Biofish. This should be done once the ground has thawed. As for watering, a deep watering every week unless it rains.
Susan Jensen Stubbe
Thursday, December 14, 2017
Front Door Decor for Winter
Urn & Container Inserts filled with winter greens…..
… is a great way to make your front door containers warm and inviting again, … We have many varieties of fresh greens and winter inserts either custom order or come in and learn how to make,…. it is a great way to de-stress.
?Stop in and get inspiration; we have pre-made inserts or custom made orders for 1gallon, 2gallon, 10" and 12" sizes, and with just a little added sparkling pinecones, birch branches, or golden - red canes, a few berries & some additional Christmas sparkle is all it would take to transform your front door into a winter wonderland.
DIY Winter Container Garden
Creating your own winter container garden is simple;
Follow the guidelines below or get a head-start by using one of our pre-made inserts.
If your front door containers are frozen, you can try thawing them by pouring hot water into them or if possible move them indoors for a couple of days.
then you can recycle your old soil; (cut back your plants to soil level)
OR
Pop into our garden shop and pick up an insert from us, either premade or create one yourself.
We make our winter inserts by adding a combination of SAND & OASIS’ to fill the container then you insert a different greens into the container & make as full as you like… Water well so OASIS and container can now freeze up.
Mix and match textures from winter greens. We have white pine, Frasier fir, boxwood, cedar, etc., & winter holly. Use strong, thick branches for height, and floppy branches for flow.
Add height and interest with branches, pinecones, birch poles, berries, or dogwood or lotus pods etc .
Add lights if you want
Protect from heavy snow fall, or shake snow free after a storm
We take custom orders for winter arrangements, centerpieces and wreaths.
Winter insert pieces are made from natural materials then have decorated to your liking.
Monday, October 23, 2017
Terrarium Fun - Plants for indoors
Terrarium gardening is TRENDING AGAIN, probably cause it’s so much fun to create these dreamy, moist, lo-maintenance, colourful garden containers; they are so beautiful and comforting to look at, during a dreary day.
We are stock with succulents and all the supplies you need. Drop in and we can send you home with some supplies. Or make one up while you are here!
… these are miniature gardens in a glass vessel.
1. Choose a GLASS CONTAINER / VESSEL (usually a terrarium has a lid to retain moisture) .
Locate an area in your home that will give ample amounts of sunlight for growth of the plants in your terrarium
2. Supplies required for this project:
Pebbles or Stones
Soil – or Sand
Charcoal
Moss and other small mulch
Plants ; eg succulents, cactus, hens and chicks,
·
The planting process begins with the pebbles then a layer of charcoal, then moss, then soil and or sand.
Create the landscape of your terrarium by creating small hills etc., using simple household cutlery. Add the tiny plants (eg. Succulents…)
Finally, add any decorative item in and around plants … watering is best done with a spray bottle as you do not want too much. Transpiration and evaporation will occur and keep the cycle going. Plants will grow and eventually some may need to be removed or trimmed.
We are stock with succulents and all the supplies you need. Drop in and we can send you home with some supplies. Or make one up while you are here!
Happy Low – maintenance Indoor Gardening
Thursday, June 29, 2017
Happy 150th Canada!!
Happy 150th Canada!!
Around my acreage this time of year, .. I see that my daffodils, tulips & crocuses have bloomed and now are dyeing back. While the lilacs, lupines, peonies, alliums and roses are coming into their own. The trees and bushes are looking healthy and green, ? but the gardening continues with weeding, applying fertilizer and mulch to help protect and beautify.
Most communities across the country will host organized celebrations for Canada Day, typically outdoor public events, such as parades, carnivals, festivals, barbecues, air and maritime shows, fireworks, and free musical concerts.,
Fly your Canadian flag, .. wear your red and white and be humble, kind and thankful; you were born or live now in the most beautiful and safest place in the world. Celebrate how lucky you are to call Canada home.
I ? Canada !!
Tuesday, May 16, 2017
Long Weekend Flowers
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Well, ..we are well under way both inside the greenhouse & outside @ Jensen’s Nursery, you can feel the excitement as many gardeners awaited their initial planting this May long weekend. Remember though it is early to plant annuals and most vegetables outside. There is still a chance of frost. Cold hardy onions, potatoes, and garlic bulbs could go in now for sure. If you a way to cover in case of frost or move containers into garages. Then plant away but watch the weather!
Our greenhouse is dazzling with many of our hanging baskets spilling over with colour and gardeners both new and old have been filling their shopping boxes with favourite plants. A simple rule for planting pots is to have 3 different types of plants; the thriller being the focal or tallest plant in the container, the fillers should be of complimentary colours and shorter than the thriller, and last but not least, the spiller to add the dramatic draping of colour to your container.
The outside area has display tables of rows of perennials that will continue to change as they grow til blooming and many display areas of shrubs and trees that are just now waking up as they fully leaf out.
Whether you have a shade spot or a sunny spot we have some great suggestions to help build your containers, gardens and landscaping.
Gardening can be a very rewarding activity. With a little time and effort, you can watch your creativity blossom and your ideal outdoor space flower.
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Tuesday, June 28, 2016
Rain, Rain Go Away!
Rain, Rain Go Away
By Susan Jensen Stubbe
There is something great about the fresh smell in the air after a good rain. The birds seem to chirp louder, the animals frolic about and the trees, shrubs and plants seem to stand at attention and glow with lush new growth. But then it keeps raining two or three times a week, never really drying out in between rains. Our established trees and shrubs still look ok but our newly planted trees are starting to turn yellow and the leaves are wilting. How can the leaves actually be wilting with all this water. The reason they are wilting is the excess water is actually damaging the roots systems. The plant’s roots need oxygen to be healthy and grow. As the water fills the pores in the soil it pushes the oxygen out. If the plant’s roots cannot get the required amount of oxygen they start dying causing the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. The plants do not have to be surrounded by standing water for this root damage to occur they just need to have continuous wetness.
Once these roots are damaged the plant can’t take up the require moisture and nutrients and it will stop growing or if the damage is extensive they will eventually died.
To help your plants thru the stressful time you should lightly aerated the soil around the drip line with a garden fork. You want to loosen the soil but not break the roots.
Make sure you are not adding water when it is not needed. A newly planted tree needs moisture but it also need to slightly dry between watering. I like to do what I call a squeeze test to see if the soil requires moisture. To do this you collect a handful of soil from the base of the plant and squeeze it in your hand. If the soil holds the shape of your hand and does not crumble easily then there is enough moisture present. If the soil crumbles easily then the tree required moisture.
Generally trees require approximately 5 gallons of water per inch to trunk per week. This water should be applied at a slow rate so it does not run off. For a newly planted tree or shrub apply this water on top of the root ball as well as to the soil surrounding the edge of the root ball. This will encourage the tree to expand its roots.
Planting a tree to deep can also cause the roots to die from lack of oxygen. A plant should be planted so that the root ball is level with the surrounding grade or slightly higher.
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DogwoodDo
By Susan Jensen Stubbe
There is something great about the fresh smell in the air after a good rain. The birds seem to chirp louder, the animals frolic about and the trees, shrubs and plants seem to stand at attention and glow with lush new growth. But then it keeps raining two or three times a week, never really drying out in between rains. Our established trees and shrubs still look ok but our newly planted trees are starting to turn yellow and the leaves are wilting. How can the leaves actually be wilting with all this water. The reason they are wilting is the excess water is actually damaging the roots systems. The plant’s roots need oxygen to be healthy and grow. As the water fills the pores in the soil it pushes the oxygen out. If the plant’s roots cannot get the required amount of oxygen they start dying causing the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. The plants do not have to be surrounded by standing water for this root damage to occur they just need to have continuous wetness.
Once these roots are damaged the plant can’t take up the require moisture and nutrients and it will stop growing or if the damage is extensive they will eventually died.
To help your plants thru the stressful time you should lightly aerated the soil around the drip line with a garden fork. You want to loosen the soil but not break the roots.
Make sure you are not adding water when it is not needed. A newly planted tree needs moisture but it also need to slightly dry between watering. I like to do what I call a squeeze test to see if the soil requires moisture. To do this you collect a handful of soil from the base of the plant and squeeze it in your hand. If the soil holds the shape of your hand and does not crumble easily then there is enough moisture present. If the soil crumbles easily then the tree required moisture.
Generally trees require approximately 5 gallons of water per inch to trunk per week. This water should be applied at a slow rate so it does not run off. For a newly planted tree or shrub apply this water on top of the root ball as well as to the soil surrounding the edge of the root ball. This will encourage the tree to expand its roots.
Planting a tree to deep can also cause the roots to die from lack of oxygen. A plant should be planted so that the root ball is level with the surrounding grade or slightly higher.
DogwoodDo
Friday, January 22, 2016
Val's Christmas Tree in January! Bird Haven!
Happy New Year!
Here’s a picture of what I did with my Jensens christmas tree ( a 6 foot premium frasier this
year) yes I know not exactly as enviromentally friendly as turning it into mulch but so very
much more entertaining!
I decorated it with pine cones dipped in peanut butter then rolled in black oil seeds, unshelled
peanuts, and some leftover baked goods .The sparrows also enjoy leftover porridge as well
especially if it has cranberries in it which I also included .
My visitors include many different species of sparrows, chickadees and bluejays
I have not seen the woodpecker on there but I know he is around!
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Thursday, December 17, 2015
1 Week of Christmas!
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Wow....Snow!
All of our gardens will be much happier with their new cozy white blanket.
We have had a very busy holiday season this year, and we would like to extend our thanks to all our customers. Without your support we would not be a successful local business. We try to alwalys give friendly, helpful advice and the very best service all year long!
Thank you and see you in the Spring!
And to all a good night,
Jennifer
ps...last day open in Monday December 21st!
All of our gardens will be much happier with their new cozy white blanket.
We have had a very busy holiday season this year, and we would like to extend our thanks to all our customers. Without your support we would not be a successful local business. We try to alwalys give friendly, helpful advice and the very best service all year long!
Thank you and see you in the Spring!
And to all a good night,
Jennifer
ps...last day open in Monday December 21st!
Thursday, December 10, 2015
2 Weeks of Christmas!
Christmas is coming fast this year, and as I write this I see some snow outside. Finally…all our gardens need it!
Come in soon to pick out your Christmas tree if you haven’t already. Our stock is getting low Remember our free delivery.
AND…
Every year we have donated to Pennies from Heaven. For every Christmas tree we sell we give $2 and for every poinsettia we give $1. It is now called “Miracle on Mountain” because we don’t have pennies anymore. The money raised helps the Christmas Cheer Board.
AND…
We are collecting food for Winnipeg Harvest. The bins are right at our front door. They have told us that they especially need baby formula.
We are here until December 21 st. We have fresh wreaths, Christmas trees, poinsettias and giftware. We can make a custom centrepiece for your holiday table as well.
Glaedelig Jul,
Jennifer
Wednesday, December 02, 2015
3 Weeks of Christmas!
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I love Christmas! We are very busy and there is lots to do. And we have Cookies! 
It was nice to see some of our “regular” customers and great to see some newcustomers this past weekend.
We have delivered quite a few Christmas trees already, so I thought it was time to give you some specific care instructions to keep your tree beautiful throughout the season.
If we have done a fresh cut at the bottom of your tree, it is important to get that tree into water within an hour. If we have just dropped your tree off at our house, you will need to get a saw and take an inch off the bottom of your tree. This allows the tree to draw up water from the stand, just like a fresh bouquet of flowers. In the first days, your tree will drink a lot of water, so you have to check a couple of times a day to replenish the water in the stand. This water intake will slow down so that you will only have to add water every day or two. Please think about closing hot air vents that are near the tree. This will help. We don’t recommend anything but plain water. No sugar, 7 up etc. The most important idea here is that you don’t let that fresh cut be above the water line.
If you haven’t received your tree yet, this might be a good time to consider a new stand. We have some in the greenhouse, that are extremely easy to use and hold a lot of WATER!!!
We have another open house this weekend, so stop by and grab a Poinsettia, or a cup of Glog!!! And I am making some more Fresh wreaths.
Joyeux Noel,
Jennifer
Thursday, July 30, 2015
Red Lily Beetle
Lily Beetle
It’s amazing how Mother Nature can contain such beautiful but destructive things. Take the Red Lily Beetle for example. This bright red beetle that some would admire for its beauty but in a matter of a few days it can eat a garden full of lily leaves. It is now on Gardener’s most watched list. The beetle will feed on the leaves of the lily in the larvae stage as well as in the adult stages.
Life Cycle
The adults emerge from the ground in late April or early May and lay their eggs on the underside of the newly emerging leaves of the lily. These eggs will hatch into larva in 7-10 days and will feed for 16-24 days. These larva cover themselves in their own feces to discourage predators. Once the larva’s feeding stage is over they will drop to the soil and encase themselves in a cocoon for 2 to 3 weeks. Then they will emerge in adult form and crawl up the lily and continue feeding. As adults they fly, infecting new stands of lilies with each cycle. In late September or early October they will go into the ground to over winter. The beetle can have two or more cycles per season and can lay up to 450 eggs per season.
Identification
The adult beetle is easy to id by it’s bright red body and black legs, head and antenna. The eggs are reddish orange or light brown in color and are laid on the underside of the leaves in irregular rows. The larva are light brown covered with a black goo (their own feces) making them look like black blobs on the leaves.
Biological Control
The best time to start controlling the beetle is first thing in spring when they are mating. Handpick them from the leaves and squish them before they get a chance to lay their eggs. It’s a good idea to place a white cloth around the bottom of the lily to catch any that get away. They tend to drop as a defense mechanism when disturbed.
Because they beetle can have more than one cycle it is important to check the plants throughout the spring, summer and fall months.
Chemical Controls
For an infestation that is out of control a chemical intervention may be necessary. There are a number of products that we carry that will help control the adults and the larva. Using products containing pyrethrum or permethrin will kill the lily beetle. Pyrethrum is a natural chemical that is produced from certain chrysanthemum flowers. It breaks down quite quickly thus it is considered to have a low toxicity. Permethrin is a man made insecticide whose chemistry is based on the natural pyrethrum. The synthetic version is more stable in sunlight thus it will last a little longer in the environment. You will get good control with the Pyrethrum and better control with the permethrin. Both can be harmful to beneficial insects such as lady beetles or bees. Thus they should be applied directly to the insects or infected plants.
What we stock...
Pyrethum Based
Eco Sense Bug –b-Gone
Safer’s End All
Permethrin Based
Ambush
Dr. Doom
Please see our staff for Application Rates
Susan Jensen Stubbe
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
Got Critters? Protecting your yard from deer, rabbits, squirrels and more!
Deer and rabbits can eat your destroy your garden, flower gardens, shrubs and trees. Our warranty does not cover animal damage. Protect your plants if you have rabbits or deers in your yard. We have an assortment of products available to help protect your yard.
Plantskydd® Repellents are considered the most cost-effective, and environmentally safe, animal repellents available. An odor based animal repellent made from porcine hemoglobin, vegetable oil and water.
Squirrels and chipmunks steal bird seed. Squirrels chew through materials like siding and woods to access shelter, while chipmunks dig burrows and can damage building foundations.
CRITTER RIDDER - Repels Raccoons, Skunks, Dogs, Cats, Squirrels, Groundhogs and Chipmunks
Critter Ridder® is a patented blend of ingredients derived from hot peppers that immediately irritates an animal’s senses of smell, taste and touch upon encounter. This overwhelming irritation sensation repels critters, and after a couple of unwelcome visits, they learn to stay away from your yard.
• OMRI listed and USDA approved for use in organic gardening
•Won't damage soil or vegetation
•Lasts up to 30 days
Critter Ridder® RTU (ready-to-use) liquid is perfect for multi-surface application. An ideal animal repellent, this can be used to prevent cats, dogs, raccoons, squirrels, groundhogs and skunks digging in your lawn, garden, or landscaped areas.
It also helps keep animals from damaging ornamental/landscape planting and discourages squirrels from bird feeders. (When using on bird feeders especially wooden feeders, test-spray in an inconspicuous area to avoid staining.) The formula can reduce the frequent tearing of garbage bags by dogs, cats, squirrels and raccoons.
Critter Ridder Granual
Sprinkle granules on the ground around perimeters or across entry ways to deter animals from accessing protected areas. Use Critter Ridder® granules to keep animals out of gardens and flower beds and out from underneath porches and sheds.
Squirrels -
To repel a squirrel, a repellent with a mode of action that works via irritation or is a taste-based repellent is best. Additionally, because squirrels are so tenacious, it is strongly recommended to use both liquid and granular repellents to make your yard as uninviting as possible.
Spray CRITTER RIDDER onto surfaces like bird feeders, bulbs, and trees to keep squirrels off and prevent gnawing.
Sprinkle granular CRITTER RIDDER around the perimeter of structures, plants and gardens to prevent entry.
PLANTSKYDD Repels Deer, Rabbit, Squireels, Chipmunks and Voles
Plantskydd® Repellents are considered the most cost-effective, and environmentally safe, animal repellents available. An odor based animal repellent made from porcine hemoglobin, vegetable oil and water.
EFFECTIVE against: deer, rabbits, voles, chipmunks & squirrels
•Safe for people, pets and the environment
•RAIN-RESISTANT—no need to re-apply after every rainfall.
•SAFE for use in vegetable gardens, on fruit trees and food crops. (Do not apply to edibles within 1 month of harvest)
•ORGANIC—first animal repellent OMRI Listed by the Organic Materials Review Institute for food production.
•BONUS—built in fertilizer results in bigger, healthier plants!
What makes it so effective??
Plantskydd works by emitting an odor that animals associate with predator activity. It also stimulates a fear-based response which results in animals looking elsewhere to dine. Animals with avoid plants before they bite not after!
Applications
•For best protection, treat plants before browse begins, in spring or fall.
•Plantskydd liquid formulation lasts 3- 4 months during the active
growing season. APPLY MORE OFTEN DURING GROWING SEASON
•IMPORTANT—spray on dry plants—allow to dry for 24 hours.
•Ideally, spray in the morning or late afternoon, when the sun is not as strong.
•Spray a fine mist directly onto plant material
•Reddish-brown color dissipates within 48-72 hours
•Apply when temperatures are above freezing
•Apply to dry plants and allow 24 hours to dry
BOBBEX - click here for website -
repels Deer and Rabbits
Bobbex is a all natural safe product made with dried eggs, other proteins, fish meal, fish oil, meat meal, garlic and castor oils. It is safe on plants and has been proven effective to repel deer from shrubs, trees and ornamentals. Not recommended for use on edibles.
•Environmentally-safe
•Harmless to wildlife including aquatic species
•Harmless to humans and pets
•Contain no petrochemical or synthetic components
•Made from all-natural and recycled ingredients
•Will not wash off will last through several heavy rains
•Works by smell and taste aversion
•Will last through several heavy rains
•Dries clear with slight odor that will dissipate after 24 hours
Applications - allow 6 hours to dry before rain or watering
Spray when temperature outside is between 2 degrees and 30 degrees During Spring & Summer growing season spray every 10-14 days
During Fall & Winter spray monthly
For more information on applications - click on this link
Wednesday, April 15, 2015
It's time to apply your Dormant Oil!
Dormant Oil Kits contain Horticultural Oil and Lime Sulphur that are combined and sprayed on most Deciduous Trees and Shrubs. These oils help clean up any overwintering eggs or fungi on your trees and shrubs. It is an excellent and environmentally friendly way to get ahead of insect and disease problems on your Fruit trees, Ornamental Trees, Cranberry, Roses, Dogwoods and many other trees and shrubs.
Black spot on roses Gall mite on Maple tree oyster shell scale
Dormant Oil must be sprayed before the leaves emerge and when the buds are just beginning to swell. Spray in early morning to allow sufficient time to dry before nightfall. You want to pick a day that there is no rain in the forecast and the temperature will stay above 4°C.
Dormant Oils will help control scale insects, mites(maple gall Mites), aphids, apple scab, powdery mildew, and anthracnose. It is an excellent general clean up for any garden.
Powdery mildew Dormant Oil Spray Kit
Powdery mildew Dormant Oil Spray Kit
Friday, January 18, 2013
My Seeds Are Sprouting – What Do I Do Now??????
I hope you have had some success in getting your seeds to sprout!
Once the seeds have sprouted, remove the cover. When the seedlings are young, you may want to re-cover them for a few hours a day to keep them from drying out.
Over many years of growing my own plants, one thing that really helped me out was using a turkey baster to water the young seedlings. I found I had better control over the amount of water I gave them, as opposed to using a watering can. I often would use a spray bottle filled with water, however, in many instances, the young seedlings would be bowled over with the spray. Always use warm water, NOT cool.
This is also the time to start fertilizing. Use a water soluble fertilizer such as a 10-52-10. Add fertilizer to tepid water, as directed, and fertilize about every third watering. A high middle number (phosphorous) will encourage a good root system; a high first number (nitrogen) will encourage too much leaf growth and the third number (potassium) will allow for better uptake of food and water from the soil and is good for the over-all health of the plant. At this point, don’t over-fertilize and don’t over-water.
Put the seedlings as close to your light source as possible to prevent the seedlings from “stretching”. If you are using Fluorescent lights, keep your lights on for about 15 – 16 hours a day. If you have them in a sunny spot in the house, make sure they don’t dry out from the heat of the sun. You will also have to turn them every few days to encourage the stems to grow straight and prevent stretching.
Once the seedlings appear to be over-crowded, or have developed their second set of leaves, it is time to separate them and transplant them into little containers of their own, (about 1 ½” – 2”) large. Pick the plants up by the leaves, not the stem or roots when you are transplanting. Make sure the containers you are using have holes for good drainage. Peat pots are excellent ones to use as they allow the water to pass through and you won’t have to remove your plant when planting out into the soil as the peat pot will break down in the moist soil. If you transplant seedlings into a container that is too large, you won’t see much new top-growth, however, the plant will be busy growing roots to fill the container. At this point, you may want to switch to an all-purpose fertilizer (20-20-20). I like using a very weak strength of fertilizer with every watering.
Almost all seedlings will grow into better, bushier plants if you pinch off their top growth after they’ve grown their second or third set of leaves. Never pinch tuberous begonia or celosia. As the seedlings grow, you may want to transplant them again into a container that is a little larger. You may also want to add some soil to your soil-less mix to train the roots to work their way through soil. They will have a better time once they are finally planted into the garden. You will then have some healthy, large plants to transplant outside once the weather warms (usually around May 24th).
As your seedlings grow, use a fan on them for a few hours a day to stress them a little. Also, allow them to dry out a bit by missing a watering and a fertilizing once a week and put them in a cool spot at night. Your plants will be a lot stronger and more able to survive better on their own outside.
Always harden off your plants before planting them outside by gradually getting them used to the conditions in which they are going to grow. A plant that has been pampered with a lot of water, fertilizer heat and humidity will grow lush, green, tender foliage but will be the first to go into shock and keel over in our Manitoba sun and wind. Always put your tender plants into a shady, sheltered spot for the first couple of days and then gradually introduce them out into the wind and sun. If your plants become withered or start showing signs of too much sun (white leaves), give them a good watering and put them back into the sheltered shade. Your plants will soon become used to the conditions and be less likely to succumb to the harsh conditions of the outside. A good rule to follow when planting is to plant your sun plants out first and then your shade plants. Usually the shade plants are more tender and planting out too early (impatiens or begonia) will set them back or you may lose them if the nights dip down to below 10 degrees.
Many plants such as petunias, verbena, alyssum, dianthus, foxglove (foxy), snapdragons, gazanias, centaurea (batchelor button), rudbeckia (gloriosa daisy), sweet peas, chrysanthemum, cosmos and pansies can take a little cold and frost, but, be prepared to cover them if the risk of frost occurs soon after planting out. Use newspaper, cardboard or sheets to cover. Never use plastic as this draws the cold.
About a week after your plants have been planted outside, give them a good fertilizing (like a Miracle Gro 15-30-15 for all your blooming plants and an all-purpost 20-20-20) for all your leafy plants. Continue to do so, according to directions, throughout the summer and you will have strong, healthy plants right through the season.
Stay tuned for some more planting tips and tricks!
Arlene Wheeler
Once the seeds have sprouted, remove the cover. When the seedlings are young, you may want to re-cover them for a few hours a day to keep them from drying out.
Over many years of growing my own plants, one thing that really helped me out was using a turkey baster to water the young seedlings. I found I had better control over the amount of water I gave them, as opposed to using a watering can. I often would use a spray bottle filled with water, however, in many instances, the young seedlings would be bowled over with the spray. Always use warm water, NOT cool.
This is also the time to start fertilizing. Use a water soluble fertilizer such as a 10-52-10. Add fertilizer to tepid water, as directed, and fertilize about every third watering. A high middle number (phosphorous) will encourage a good root system; a high first number (nitrogen) will encourage too much leaf growth and the third number (potassium) will allow for better uptake of food and water from the soil and is good for the over-all health of the plant. At this point, don’t over-fertilize and don’t over-water.
Put the seedlings as close to your light source as possible to prevent the seedlings from “stretching”. If you are using Fluorescent lights, keep your lights on for about 15 – 16 hours a day. If you have them in a sunny spot in the house, make sure they don’t dry out from the heat of the sun. You will also have to turn them every few days to encourage the stems to grow straight and prevent stretching.
Once the seedlings appear to be over-crowded, or have developed their second set of leaves, it is time to separate them and transplant them into little containers of their own, (about 1 ½” – 2”) large. Pick the plants up by the leaves, not the stem or roots when you are transplanting. Make sure the containers you are using have holes for good drainage. Peat pots are excellent ones to use as they allow the water to pass through and you won’t have to remove your plant when planting out into the soil as the peat pot will break down in the moist soil. If you transplant seedlings into a container that is too large, you won’t see much new top-growth, however, the plant will be busy growing roots to fill the container. At this point, you may want to switch to an all-purpose fertilizer (20-20-20). I like using a very weak strength of fertilizer with every watering.
Almost all seedlings will grow into better, bushier plants if you pinch off their top growth after they’ve grown their second or third set of leaves. Never pinch tuberous begonia or celosia. As the seedlings grow, you may want to transplant them again into a container that is a little larger. You may also want to add some soil to your soil-less mix to train the roots to work their way through soil. They will have a better time once they are finally planted into the garden. You will then have some healthy, large plants to transplant outside once the weather warms (usually around May 24th).
As your seedlings grow, use a fan on them for a few hours a day to stress them a little. Also, allow them to dry out a bit by missing a watering and a fertilizing once a week and put them in a cool spot at night. Your plants will be a lot stronger and more able to survive better on their own outside.
Always harden off your plants before planting them outside by gradually getting them used to the conditions in which they are going to grow. A plant that has been pampered with a lot of water, fertilizer heat and humidity will grow lush, green, tender foliage but will be the first to go into shock and keel over in our Manitoba sun and wind. Always put your tender plants into a shady, sheltered spot for the first couple of days and then gradually introduce them out into the wind and sun. If your plants become withered or start showing signs of too much sun (white leaves), give them a good watering and put them back into the sheltered shade. Your plants will soon become used to the conditions and be less likely to succumb to the harsh conditions of the outside. A good rule to follow when planting is to plant your sun plants out first and then your shade plants. Usually the shade plants are more tender and planting out too early (impatiens or begonia) will set them back or you may lose them if the nights dip down to below 10 degrees.
Many plants such as petunias, verbena, alyssum, dianthus, foxglove (foxy), snapdragons, gazanias, centaurea (batchelor button), rudbeckia (gloriosa daisy), sweet peas, chrysanthemum, cosmos and pansies can take a little cold and frost, but, be prepared to cover them if the risk of frost occurs soon after planting out. Use newspaper, cardboard or sheets to cover. Never use plastic as this draws the cold.
About a week after your plants have been planted outside, give them a good fertilizing (like a Miracle Gro 15-30-15 for all your blooming plants and an all-purpost 20-20-20) for all your leafy plants. Continue to do so, according to directions, throughout the summer and you will have strong, healthy plants right through the season.
Stay tuned for some more planting tips and tricks!
Arlene Wheeler
Monday, December 03, 2012
Christmas Urns with Fresh Evergreen Boughs!
Big Urn, Little Urn, Urn with lot's of Bling,
Urn with natural pinecones!
If you can vision it we can build it!
Christmas Outdoor Containers to make your neighbours jealous!!!!
All of our crafts supplies are here for you to choose your custom design. Come by today and order a beautiful outdoor container custom made to your taste! You can pick out pinecones, branches, berries, wheat , or one of our many christmas picks! Or buy the boughs and craft supplies and take them home to make it yourself! We are here to make your home beautiful for Christmas inside and out!
Urn with natural pinecones!
If you can vision it we can build it!
Christmas Outdoor Containers to make your neighbours jealous!!!!
All of our crafts supplies are here for you to choose your custom design. Come by today and order a beautiful outdoor container custom made to your taste! You can pick out pinecones, branches, berries, wheat , or one of our many christmas picks! Or buy the boughs and craft supplies and take them home to make it yourself! We are here to make your home beautiful for Christmas inside and out!
Thursday, November 08, 2012
Arlene’s Houseplant Tips
Now that you have put your garden to sleep, it’s time to enjoy some indoor gardening. With our efforts concentrated on our outdoor gardens in summer, most of us tend to neglect our houseplants.
Indoor plants can provide us with colour during the drab days of winter and also do a great job of cleaning our air. Larger plants soften and blend with groups of furniture, while smaller plants enhance and adorn our tables and windowsills. Knowing your plant’s requirements and paying close attention to your plants will substitute for a “Green Thumb”. Most foliage plants are native to tropical areas and enjoy a humid atmosphere with indirect light. If your plant does not receive enough light, it will soon let you know with yellowing leaves that will soon die. A great way to increase humidity is to group your plants together or set them on trays filled with pebbles and water. Avoid spraying your plants to increase humidity as this is only an invitation to insects and disease.
Plants will sense the natural shortening of daylight hours and may go into dormancy as they would in their natural habitat. This is a period of inactivity where the plant remains alive but doesn’t grow. This is a time when the amount of water and light should be decreased. Most of our indoor plants die off because we water them too much. Water only when the soil becomes dry to the touch about an inch below the surface. Never allow the plant to sit in water as this will promote root rot.
Following are some of my houseplant tips.
1. Cut back on feeding houseplants. This is the time of year the plants need a rest. The best time to fertilize houseplants is from late January until the beginning of October.
2. Now is NOT the time to re-pot houseplants unless they are root-bound, that is, if the roots of your plant are coming through the drain holes; or if your plant has definitely outgrown its container, otherwise, the best time is in the spring.
3. Healthy houseplants require good air circulation, so it’s important to avoid over-crowding.
4. Wash the leaves of your plants several times a year. Not only is dust unsightly on plants, it clogs the pores of plants leaves and filters sunlight before it reaches the plant. Dust and grime can also harbor insects. With a soft cloth, wipe the leaves with lukewarm water with a bit of mild dishwashing soap or insecticidal soap added to it
5. Check your plants weekly for insects and disease. If you didn’t isolate and spray your outdoor plants before introducing them into the house, you may have brought in some insects and disease. Check the underside of the leaves as this is where most insects gather. If you are checking your plants on a regular basis, you will catch a lot of the insects before your plant becomes infested.
6. Mealy bug – If your plant is a looking a little bit wilted and losing colour, your plant may have Mealy bug. Their bodies are up to ¼” long and are covered in a white powdery wax. They gather on the underneath part of the leaves and at the base of leaf stems. Mealy bug is one of the hardest insects to rid your plant of. Isolate your plant and spray it with an insecticidal spray or use a cotton swab with rubbing alcohol and remove them. You may have to do this a number of times.
7. Aphids are another popular houseplant insect. They are usually light or dark green, are very tiny, about 1/6th inch long and also cluster on stems and underneath leaves. They will literally suck the life out of your plant and can also cause premature bud drop. Use an insecticidal spray to control them, as well.
8. Scale looks like little bumps that collect along stems and at the base of leaves. They cause a reddening of tissue wherever they feed. The stems usually lose vigor and die. They are controlled by using an insecticidal spray.
9. Whitefly – If your leaves are looking a little yellow, dry and dropping, your plant may be infested with Whitefly. They are about 1/16th inch long and are white in colour. If they are disturbed, they flutter about the plant. An insecticidal spray provides effective control, as do sticky tapes.
10. Keep your plants away from heat registers, hot or cool drafts and from warm appliances. High room temperatures make the plant spindly; may cause blooming plants to drop buds or finish blooming prematurely and make them less resistant to insects and disease.
Following is a list of houseplants that are easy to care for and are great plants for a beginner:
1. Cactus (Cactaceae Family) – It loves the sun and seldom needs watering.
2. Dragon Tree – (Dracaena marginata) – It loves a bright location and good drainage. (Don’t let its feet stand in water.)
3. Heartleaf Philodendron – (Philodendron scandens) – The Sweetheart is the most popular of the Philodendrons as it remains fairly small and drought tolerant.
4. Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) – This is a succulent foliage plant that’s happy in indirect sun and little water.
5. Mother-in-Laws Tongue or Snake Plant- (Sansevieria) – This plant has beautiful sword-shaped leaves, thrives in full sun or part shade, prefers dry air and soil and rarely needs repotting.
6. Ponytail Palm – (Beaucarnea recurvata) – This plant, which is often mistaken for a Palm, is actually a succulent. It stores water in its swollen base so the occasional lack of water will do no harm.
7. Pothos or Devil’s Ivy – (Epipremnum aureum) – This plant is well known for its long, trailing stems that can grow to 8 feet or more. If you forget to water every once in awhile, it is very forgiving; however, it doesn’t like to be waterlogged. Cut it back a few times a year to make it bushy.
8. Spider Plant – Chlorophytum comosum) – This is a very dependable plant. The stems produce little white flowers and are soon weighted down with little plantlets. It prefers bright, indirect light.
9. Wandering Jew – (Zebrina pendula) – This is a beautiful plant with purple and green leaves and is a great one to add to your outdoor containers. It likes moist soil. Pinch it often to keep it from getting leggy.
10. ZZ Plant – (Zamioculclas zamiifolia) – This is an easy going houseplant that thrives on neglect. It tolerates low light, rarely needs fertilizing and is very forgiving if you forget to water.
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
ARLENE’S FALL COMPOSTING TIPS
1. TILL THE ANNUALS IN. MOST ANNUALS THAT HAVE FINISHED FRUITING CAN BE TILLED INTO THE GARDEN. THE LARGER BODIED PLANTS SUCH AS TOMATOES, BROCCOLI AND DAHLIAS CAN BE CHOPPED UP INTO SMALLER PIECES TO MAKE IT EASIER TO COMPOST.
2. LET THE PERENNIALS GET BLACKENED BY FROST & LEAVE IN THE GROUND TO PROVIDE HOMES FOR THE GOOD BUGS LIKE THE LADY BUG OR CUT THE FOLIAGE AND TILL BACK INTO THE GARDEN OR SAVE IN BAGS TO BE ADDED TO YOUR COMPOST PILE.
3. MOW THE LEAVES BACK INTO THE LAWN, USING A MULCHER OR THE HIGHEST SETTING ON YOUR LAWNMOWER.
4. LEAF COMPOSTING - LEAVE UNDER TREES & SHRUBS TO COMPOST NATURALLY
- USE ONLY DECIDUOUS LEAVES THAT ARE CHEMICAL FREE & FUNGUS FREE.
- MAKE A LEAF PILE 4’ IN DIAMETER & 3’ HIGH. INCLUDE A LAYER OF SOIL BETWEEN EVERY FOOT OF LEAVES; MOISTEN BUT NOT SATURATE THE PILE. PUT A PLASTIC SHEET OVER TOP OF THE PILE TO KEEP IT FROM GETTING WATER-LOGGED. WEIGHT THE EDGES DOWN WITH ROCKS. THE PILE WILL COMPOST ITSELF IN ABOUT 4 – 6 MONTHS. THE LEAF COMPOST IS BEST USED AS A SOIL AMMENDMENT RATHER THAN A FERTILIZER AS IT IS LOW IN NUTRIENTS.
5. OAK LEAVES BREAK DOWN SLOWLY AERATING OUR CLAY SOIL, MAKING THE SOIL LIGHTER AND HELPING WITH RETAINING MOISTURE. SPREAD THE LEAVES OVER THE GARDEN.
6. LEAVES ARE RICH IN CARBON SO ARE EASILY INCORPORATED INTO THE COMPOST BIN.
- YOU NEED 2/3 CARBONS (BROWN) - (LEAVES, TWIGS, STRAW, SHRUB PRUNINGS, DRIED GARDEN WASTE) AND 1/3 NITROGEN (GREEN) - (GRASS CLIPPINGS, KITCHEN SCRAPS, FRUIT AND VEGETABLE PEELINGS, COFFEE GROUNDS & OTHER FRESH MATERIALS.
BROWN – ACCELERATES THE COMPOSTING, ELIMINATES ODOUR & HELPS TO PRODUCE A LIGHT, FLUFFY COMPOST.
- DO NOT USE DAIRY OR MEAT!
7. BAG EXTRA LEAVES TO BE USED FOR THE COMPOST PILE IN THE SPRING AND THROUGH THE SUMMER.
8. USE COMPOST ACCELERATOR (WE HAVE AN EXCELLENT COMPOST ACCELERATOR BY ORGUNIQUE THAT WORKS VERY WELL).
9. SAVE WOOD ASH TO SPRINKLE IN THE COMPOST PILE.
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
ARLENE’S FALL GARDENING TIPS ABOUT MULCH
ARLENE’S FALL GARDENING TIPS ABOUT MULCH
APPLY ORGANIC MULCH SUCH AS SHREDDED LEAVES, SHREDDED BARK, FLAX STRAW, COMPOSTED WOOD CHIPS OR COCOA HULLS ABOUT 2 – 4” DEEP AROUND TREES AND SHRUBS AND OVER YOUR PERENNIAL GARDEN. NEVER PILE UP THE MULCH AROUND THE BASE OF TREES AND SHRUBS. LEAVE ABOUT 8 “ OF SPACE AROUND TREES AND 4 – 6” AROUND SHRUBS.
1. HELPS MAINTAIN MOISTURE
2. HELPS REDUCE GERMINATION & GROWTH OF WEEDS
3. SERVES AS NATURE’S INSULATING BLANKET, KEEPING THE SOIL WARMER IN WINTER & COOLER IN SUMMER
4. REDUCES WINTER INJURY BY MINIMIZING TEMPERATURE VARIATION THAT CAUSES THE CROWN AND ROOTS TO BE EXPOSED
5. IMPROVES SOIL AERATION, STRUCTURE AND DRAINAGE OVER TIME
6. IMPROVES SOIL FERTILITY
7. HELPS INHIBIT CERTAIN PLANT DISEASES
8. REDUCES SOIL EROSION FROM WIND AND WATER
9. IT HELPS IN CATCHING THE SNOW, PROVIDING GREATER INSULATION FOR THE ROOT SYSTEM.
APPLY ORGANIC MULCH SUCH AS SHREDDED LEAVES, SHREDDED BARK, FLAX STRAW, COMPOSTED WOOD CHIPS OR COCOA HULLS ABOUT 2 – 4” DEEP AROUND TREES AND SHRUBS AND OVER YOUR PERENNIAL GARDEN. NEVER PILE UP THE MULCH AROUND THE BASE OF TREES AND SHRUBS. LEAVE ABOUT 8 “ OF SPACE AROUND TREES AND 4 – 6” AROUND SHRUBS.
1. HELPS MAINTAIN MOISTURE
2. HELPS REDUCE GERMINATION & GROWTH OF WEEDS
3. SERVES AS NATURE’S INSULATING BLANKET, KEEPING THE SOIL WARMER IN WINTER & COOLER IN SUMMER
4. REDUCES WINTER INJURY BY MINIMIZING TEMPERATURE VARIATION THAT CAUSES THE CROWN AND ROOTS TO BE EXPOSED
5. IMPROVES SOIL AERATION, STRUCTURE AND DRAINAGE OVER TIME
6. IMPROVES SOIL FERTILITY
7. HELPS INHIBIT CERTAIN PLANT DISEASES
8. REDUCES SOIL EROSION FROM WIND AND WATER
9. IT HELPS IN CATCHING THE SNOW, PROVIDING GREATER INSULATION FOR THE ROOT SYSTEM.
Thursday, October 11, 2012
ARLENE’S TIPS ON FALL ROSE CARE
ARLENE’S TIPS ON FALL ROSE CARE
1. DON’T PRUNE ROSES IN THE FALL IN OUR ZONE – LET THE ROSES
FORM ROSEHIPS AND PREPARE FOR WINTER.
2. FOR HARDY ROSES – YOU REALLY DON’T HAVE TO DO ANYTHING, AS THEY ARE HARDY FOR OUR ZONE AND SHOULD SURVIVE THE WINTER, WITHOUT EXTRA PROTECTION.
IF YOU ARE CONCERNED ABOUT A NEWLY PLANTED ROSE, USE
FLAX STRAW TO COVER IT AFTER THEY IT HAS GONE INTO
DORMANCY.
3. FOR CLIMBING ROSES – TIE THE CANES WITH SOMETHING SUCH AS
PANTY HOSE TO KEEP THEM FROM WHIPPING AROUND IN THE
WIND.
4. FOR TEA ROSES
a. THESE ARE THE ONLY ONES YOU SHOULD PRUNE IN THE FALL OR
BEND THE CANES AND COVER, IN OUR ZONE.
b. DON’T PRUNE AND COVER, JUST TO GET IT DONE, UNTIL THE
COLD WEATHER HAS REALLY SET IN.
c. AFTER PRUNING BACK TO ABOUT 12 INCHES, SPRAY WITH A
FUNGICIDE/INSECTICIDE OR SPRINKLE WITH GARDEN SULPHUR.
d. COVER THE ROSE WITH 6 – 8 INCHES OF DRY SOIL OR LEAVES.
e. PROTECT IT WITH A ROSE CONE, CARDBOARD BOX OR CONTAINER
(NOT PLASTIC AS PLASTIC DRAWS THE COLD). PROTECT IT FROM
THE SUN, AS SOON AS THE FROST HAS GOT AT IT AND BEFORE IT
HAS A CHANCE TO THAW OUT. IT’S THE FREEZING AND THAWING
THAT DOES THE MOST HARM.
1. DON’T PRUNE ROSES IN THE FALL IN OUR ZONE – LET THE ROSES
FORM ROSEHIPS AND PREPARE FOR WINTER.
2. FOR HARDY ROSES – YOU REALLY DON’T HAVE TO DO ANYTHING, AS THEY ARE HARDY FOR OUR ZONE AND SHOULD SURVIVE THE WINTER, WITHOUT EXTRA PROTECTION.
IF YOU ARE CONCERNED ABOUT A NEWLY PLANTED ROSE, USE
FLAX STRAW TO COVER IT AFTER THEY IT HAS GONE INTO
DORMANCY.
3. FOR CLIMBING ROSES – TIE THE CANES WITH SOMETHING SUCH AS
PANTY HOSE TO KEEP THEM FROM WHIPPING AROUND IN THE
WIND.
4. FOR TEA ROSES
a. THESE ARE THE ONLY ONES YOU SHOULD PRUNE IN THE FALL OR
BEND THE CANES AND COVER, IN OUR ZONE.
b. DON’T PRUNE AND COVER, JUST TO GET IT DONE, UNTIL THE
COLD WEATHER HAS REALLY SET IN.
c. AFTER PRUNING BACK TO ABOUT 12 INCHES, SPRAY WITH A
FUNGICIDE/INSECTICIDE OR SPRINKLE WITH GARDEN SULPHUR.
d. COVER THE ROSE WITH 6 – 8 INCHES OF DRY SOIL OR LEAVES.
e. PROTECT IT WITH A ROSE CONE, CARDBOARD BOX OR CONTAINER
(NOT PLASTIC AS PLASTIC DRAWS THE COLD). PROTECT IT FROM
THE SUN, AS SOON AS THE FROST HAS GOT AT IT AND BEFORE IT
HAS A CHANCE TO THAW OUT. IT’S THE FREEZING AND THAWING
THAT DOES THE MOST HARM.
Thursday, October 11, 2012
ARLENE’S TIPS ON OVER-WINTERING CALLA LILIES
ARLENE’S TIPS ON OVER-WINTERING CALLA LILIES
1. CALLA LILIES ARE NOT LILIUM SUCH AS THE ASIATIC LILIES, THEY ARE ZANTEDESCHIA.
2. THEY WILL NOT SURVIVE IN THE GROUND. THEY MUST BE TAKEN INSIDE OVER THE WINTER.
3. FOR THE COLOURED CALLAS, DIG THEM UP WHEN THE FOLIAGE IS STARTING TO YELLOW.
4. LET THEM DRY FOR A FEW DAYS, REMOVE THE FOLIAGE AND PULL OFF THE DRY ROOTS.
5. STORE THEM IN A CARDBOARD BOX IN A COOL SPOT, AROUND 50 DEGREES.
6. THEY DON’T HAVE TO BE STORED IN SOIL OR PEAT MOSS. THEY ENJOY A GOOD AIR FLOW TO KEEP THEM DRY.
7. THE WHITE CALLAS - DIG THEM UP, RE-POT THEM AND SPRAY THEM WITH AN INSECTICIDE.
8. GROW THEM ON INDOORS, KEEPING THEM ON THE DRY SIDE.
9. THEY MAY SURPRISE YOU WITH FLOWERS IN FEBRUARY.
10. PLANT THEM OUTSIDE AGAIN THE BEGINNING OF JUNE AFTER THE CHANCE OF FROST.
1. CALLA LILIES ARE NOT LILIUM SUCH AS THE ASIATIC LILIES, THEY ARE ZANTEDESCHIA.
2. THEY WILL NOT SURVIVE IN THE GROUND. THEY MUST BE TAKEN INSIDE OVER THE WINTER.
3. FOR THE COLOURED CALLAS, DIG THEM UP WHEN THE FOLIAGE IS STARTING TO YELLOW.
4. LET THEM DRY FOR A FEW DAYS, REMOVE THE FOLIAGE AND PULL OFF THE DRY ROOTS.
5. STORE THEM IN A CARDBOARD BOX IN A COOL SPOT, AROUND 50 DEGREES.
6. THEY DON’T HAVE TO BE STORED IN SOIL OR PEAT MOSS. THEY ENJOY A GOOD AIR FLOW TO KEEP THEM DRY.
7. THE WHITE CALLAS - DIG THEM UP, RE-POT THEM AND SPRAY THEM WITH AN INSECTICIDE.
8. GROW THEM ON INDOORS, KEEPING THEM ON THE DRY SIDE.
9. THEY MAY SURPRISE YOU WITH FLOWERS IN FEBRUARY.
10. PLANT THEM OUTSIDE AGAIN THE BEGINNING OF JUNE AFTER THE CHANCE OF FROST.
Thursday, October 04, 2012
ARLENE’S TIPS FOR OVERWINTERING GERANIUMS
THERE ARE A NUMBER OF WAYS TO OVERWINTER YOUR GERANIUMS
METHOD 1 - GROW THEM ON AS HOUSEPLANTS
1. GROW THEM AS HOUSEPLANTS OVER THE WINTER, SUPPLYING THEM WITH SIMILAR CONDITIONS TO WHAT THEY WERE GROWING IN OUTDOORS.
2. DIG THEM UP AND PLACE THEM IN A POT THAT CAN COMFORTABLY FIT THEIR ROOTBALL. PRUNE THEM BACK BY ABOUT 1/3.
3. SPRAY THEM FOR INSECTS AND ISOLATE THEM FOR A FEW WEEKS BEFORE EXPOSING THEM TO YOUR OTHER PLANTS.
4. KEEP THEM AWAY FROM HEAT SOURCES IN THE HOUSE.
5. TRY TO PROVIDE THEM WITH AS MUCH LIGHT AND HUMIDITY AS POSSIBLE AT A TEMPERATURE BETWEEN 60 -70 DEGREES.
6. IN EARLY MARCH, IF THEY HAVE BECOME LEGGY, TRIM THEM BACK BY ABOUT 1/3 TO MAKE THEM BUSH OUT.
METHOD 2 - TAKE CUTTINGS FROM HEALTHY PLANTS THAT HAVE BEEN KEPT RATHER DRY FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS. (ALTHOUGH TECHNICALLY THIS IS NOT AN OVERWINTERING METHOD)
1. TAKE A CLEAN SHARP KNIFE AND MAKE A CUTTING ABOUT 3 -4 INCHES FROM THE GROWING TIP.
2. TRIM OFF THE LOWER LEAVES AND STICK THE CUTTING INTO VERMICULITE OR A COURSE SANDY MEDIUM, IN SMALL POTS OR FLATS THAT HAVE GOOD DRAINAGE.
3. WATER THEM WELL AND PLACE THE POTS INTO A CLEAR PLASTIC BAG IN A WARM SPOT AWAY FROM DIRECT LIGHT. OPEN THE BAG EVERY FEW DAYS TO ALLOW AIR IN.
4. DON’T LET THEM DRY OUT BUT DON’T OVERWATER THEM SO THEY GET ROOT ROT!
5. IN ABOUT 6 WEEKS AFTER THEY HAVE ROOTED, REPOT THEM INTO SOIL AND MOVE THE NEW PLANTS INTO A WARM SUNNY SPOT.
6. FERTILIZE WITH A WEAKENED SOLUTION OF ALL PURPOSE FERTILIZER EVERY 2 WEEKS.
7. WATER SPARINGLY UNTIL THEY CAN BE PLANTED OUTSIDE AGAIN IN THE SPRING.
METHOD 3 - MAKE THEM GO INTO DORMANCY UNTIL SPRING
1. DIG UP THE PLANT AND GENTLY REMOVE THE SOIL FROM THE ROOTS.
2. THE ROOTS SHOULDN’T BE CLEAN BUT SHOULD BE FREE FROM CLODS OF DIRT.
3. HANG THE PLANTS UPSIDE DOWN IN A SPOT WHERE THE TEMPERATURE IS ABOUT 50 DEGREES.
4. ONCE A MONTH, SOAK THE ROOTS IN WARM WATER FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND THEN RE-HANG THE PLANT.
5. THE GERANIUM WILL LOSE ALL ITS LEAVES BUT THE STEMS WILL REMAIN ALIVE.
6. IN EARLY MARCH, REPLANT THE STEMS IN SOIL IN POTS AND THEY WILL SPRING TO LIFE.
GERANIUMS ARE ALSO EASILY GROWN FROM SEED!
METHOD 1 - GROW THEM ON AS HOUSEPLANTS
1. GROW THEM AS HOUSEPLANTS OVER THE WINTER, SUPPLYING THEM WITH SIMILAR CONDITIONS TO WHAT THEY WERE GROWING IN OUTDOORS.
2. DIG THEM UP AND PLACE THEM IN A POT THAT CAN COMFORTABLY FIT THEIR ROOTBALL. PRUNE THEM BACK BY ABOUT 1/3.
3. SPRAY THEM FOR INSECTS AND ISOLATE THEM FOR A FEW WEEKS BEFORE EXPOSING THEM TO YOUR OTHER PLANTS.
4. KEEP THEM AWAY FROM HEAT SOURCES IN THE HOUSE.
5. TRY TO PROVIDE THEM WITH AS MUCH LIGHT AND HUMIDITY AS POSSIBLE AT A TEMPERATURE BETWEEN 60 -70 DEGREES.
6. IN EARLY MARCH, IF THEY HAVE BECOME LEGGY, TRIM THEM BACK BY ABOUT 1/3 TO MAKE THEM BUSH OUT.
METHOD 2 - TAKE CUTTINGS FROM HEALTHY PLANTS THAT HAVE BEEN KEPT RATHER DRY FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS. (ALTHOUGH TECHNICALLY THIS IS NOT AN OVERWINTERING METHOD)
1. TAKE A CLEAN SHARP KNIFE AND MAKE A CUTTING ABOUT 3 -4 INCHES FROM THE GROWING TIP.
2. TRIM OFF THE LOWER LEAVES AND STICK THE CUTTING INTO VERMICULITE OR A COURSE SANDY MEDIUM, IN SMALL POTS OR FLATS THAT HAVE GOOD DRAINAGE.
3. WATER THEM WELL AND PLACE THE POTS INTO A CLEAR PLASTIC BAG IN A WARM SPOT AWAY FROM DIRECT LIGHT. OPEN THE BAG EVERY FEW DAYS TO ALLOW AIR IN.
4. DON’T LET THEM DRY OUT BUT DON’T OVERWATER THEM SO THEY GET ROOT ROT!
5. IN ABOUT 6 WEEKS AFTER THEY HAVE ROOTED, REPOT THEM INTO SOIL AND MOVE THE NEW PLANTS INTO A WARM SUNNY SPOT.
6. FERTILIZE WITH A WEAKENED SOLUTION OF ALL PURPOSE FERTILIZER EVERY 2 WEEKS.
7. WATER SPARINGLY UNTIL THEY CAN BE PLANTED OUTSIDE AGAIN IN THE SPRING.
METHOD 3 - MAKE THEM GO INTO DORMANCY UNTIL SPRING
1. DIG UP THE PLANT AND GENTLY REMOVE THE SOIL FROM THE ROOTS.
2. THE ROOTS SHOULDN’T BE CLEAN BUT SHOULD BE FREE FROM CLODS OF DIRT.
3. HANG THE PLANTS UPSIDE DOWN IN A SPOT WHERE THE TEMPERATURE IS ABOUT 50 DEGREES.
4. ONCE A MONTH, SOAK THE ROOTS IN WARM WATER FOR ABOUT AN HOUR AND THEN RE-HANG THE PLANT.
5. THE GERANIUM WILL LOSE ALL ITS LEAVES BUT THE STEMS WILL REMAIN ALIVE.
6. IN EARLY MARCH, REPLANT THE STEMS IN SOIL IN POTS AND THEY WILL SPRING TO LIFE.
GERANIUMS ARE ALSO EASILY GROWN FROM SEED!
Thursday, October 04, 2012
ARLENE’S TIPS FOR DIVIDING PERENNIALS
Most perennials can and should be divided to rejuvenate, maintaining good health and peak bloom. My favourite time of year is to divide in late fall. The soil is still warm; the plant gets settled in quickly and comes up in the spring looking refreshed. Most perennials, when really needing to be divided, tend to die out from the centre or produce smaller leaves and smaller and fewer flowers. Many times over the years, I have found that I should have really divided the perennial at the end of the season of the year the plant is in its peak form, as, more often than not, the next year it’s starting to split in the centre or there are fewer blooms than the previous year.
Here are some tips when dividing:
1. Water the plant well the day before you intend to divide the plant to put less stress on the plant when you start digging.
2. Dig up the entire plant, starting at the drip line. If the plant is huge, you may have to slice down the centre of the plant, using a sharp spade. Then slice the other way down the centre again. The plant will now be in four parts and make it a lot easier to lift it out of the ground.
3. Once the plant has been lifted out of the ground, tangled, fibrous roots can be separated by hand or by using a garden fork, while tough dense roots like a peony will need to be cut apart with a sharp knife or spade.
4. Discard the woody centres of plants and any parts that have soft, rotted roots. Each new division must have two or three new shoots and a good bunch of healthy roots. You will find a lot of the younger roots and offshoots that grow at the edge of the clump will likely produce stronger, healthier new plants.
5. Before replanting, replenish the area with organic matter to renew the soil.
6. Plant the new divisions as soon as possible otherwise they will soon start to dry out. If they have dried out while on hold, soak them in a bucket of water for about an hour before replanting.
7. Plant the new plants at the same depth that the old plant was growing.
8. Use a rooting hormone, such as Root Booster or Myke, to get the roots settled quickly and then water the plant well. Keep the soil moist for several weeks while the new roots are forming.
Plants that should be divided in late summer of early fall:
Asiatic Lily (Lilium) - (Dig deep and replant the bulbs). For an attractive display, plant the bulbs in groups of three on a mound of soil. Also put sand at the bottom of the hole to provide good drainage.
Bearded Iris – Allow part of the corms to show above ground. If they are planted too deeply, they may rot or they may not bloom.
*Daylily (Hemerocallis), *Jacob’s Ladder, *Peony (divide infrequently), *Tall Phlox (Phlox paniculata), *Siberian Iris and *Hosta
*Can also be divided in early spring.
Plants to divide in early spring: (Every 1 – 3 years)
Aster Garden Mums
Beardtongue Obedient Plant
Beebalm Painted Daisy
Carnation Shasta Daisy
Common Sundrops Spiderwort
Coralbells Tickseed
Cornflower Yarrow
Delphinium
Fernleaf Bleeding Heart
Foamflower
Plants to divide in early spring: (Every 3 – 5 years)
Astilbe Gooseneck
Bellflower Mallow
Blanketflower Sea Thrift
Catmint Speedwell
Coneflower Daylily (Hemerocallis)
Gay Feather Liatris
Plants to divide in early spring: (Every 5 – 10 years)
Cranesbill Geranium Lungwort
Goatsbeard Meadow Rue
Hosta Meadowsweet
Japanese Anemone Oxeye
Lady’s Mantle Siberian Iris
Plants to divide only to propagate:
Bugbane Yucca
Globeflower
DO NOT DIVIDE THE FOLLOWING PLANTS:
Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila) False Indigo (Baptisia)
Balloon Flower (Platycodon) Flax (Linum)
Bugbane (Cimicifuga) Gentian
Butterfly Weed (Asclepias) Foxgloves (Digitalis)
Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus) Lupine
Clematis Monkshood (Aconitum)
Evening Primrose (Oenothera missourienis)
Russian Sage (Perovskia) Sea Hollies (Eryngium spp.)
Here are some tips when dividing:
1. Water the plant well the day before you intend to divide the plant to put less stress on the plant when you start digging.
2. Dig up the entire plant, starting at the drip line. If the plant is huge, you may have to slice down the centre of the plant, using a sharp spade. Then slice the other way down the centre again. The plant will now be in four parts and make it a lot easier to lift it out of the ground.
3. Once the plant has been lifted out of the ground, tangled, fibrous roots can be separated by hand or by using a garden fork, while tough dense roots like a peony will need to be cut apart with a sharp knife or spade.
4. Discard the woody centres of plants and any parts that have soft, rotted roots. Each new division must have two or three new shoots and a good bunch of healthy roots. You will find a lot of the younger roots and offshoots that grow at the edge of the clump will likely produce stronger, healthier new plants.
5. Before replanting, replenish the area with organic matter to renew the soil.
6. Plant the new divisions as soon as possible otherwise they will soon start to dry out. If they have dried out while on hold, soak them in a bucket of water for about an hour before replanting.
7. Plant the new plants at the same depth that the old plant was growing.
8. Use a rooting hormone, such as Root Booster or Myke, to get the roots settled quickly and then water the plant well. Keep the soil moist for several weeks while the new roots are forming.
Plants that should be divided in late summer of early fall:
Asiatic Lily (Lilium) - (Dig deep and replant the bulbs). For an attractive display, plant the bulbs in groups of three on a mound of soil. Also put sand at the bottom of the hole to provide good drainage.
Bearded Iris – Allow part of the corms to show above ground. If they are planted too deeply, they may rot or they may not bloom.
*Daylily (Hemerocallis), *Jacob’s Ladder, *Peony (divide infrequently), *Tall Phlox (Phlox paniculata), *Siberian Iris and *Hosta
*Can also be divided in early spring.
Plants to divide in early spring: (Every 1 – 3 years)
Aster Garden Mums
Beardtongue Obedient Plant
Beebalm Painted Daisy
Carnation Shasta Daisy
Common Sundrops Spiderwort
Coralbells Tickseed
Cornflower Yarrow
Delphinium
Fernleaf Bleeding Heart
Foamflower
Plants to divide in early spring: (Every 3 – 5 years)
Astilbe Gooseneck
Bellflower Mallow
Blanketflower Sea Thrift
Catmint Speedwell
Coneflower Daylily (Hemerocallis)
Gay Feather Liatris
Plants to divide in early spring: (Every 5 – 10 years)
Cranesbill Geranium Lungwort
Goatsbeard Meadow Rue
Hosta Meadowsweet
Japanese Anemone Oxeye
Lady’s Mantle Siberian Iris
Plants to divide only to propagate:
Bugbane Yucca
Globeflower
DO NOT DIVIDE THE FOLLOWING PLANTS:
Baby’s Breath (Gypsophila) False Indigo (Baptisia)
Balloon Flower (Platycodon) Flax (Linum)
Bugbane (Cimicifuga) Gentian
Butterfly Weed (Asclepias) Foxgloves (Digitalis)
Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus) Lupine
Clematis Monkshood (Aconitum)
Evening Primrose (Oenothera missourienis)
Russian Sage (Perovskia) Sea Hollies (Eryngium spp.)
Wednesday, October 03, 2012
Arlene's Tips for Over-Wintering Dahlia Tubers
ARLENE’S TIPS FOR OVER-WINTERING DAHLIA TUBERS
1. ALLOW THE DAHLIA TO BE BLACKENED BY FROST.
2. CUT DOWN TO ABOUT 4 INCHES FROM THE GROUND.
3. LIFT THE TUBERS WITH A GARDEN FORK SO AS NOT TO CUT THE TUBER.
4. ALLOW THE TUBERS TO CURE (DRY) A FEW DAYS ON THE GROUND. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO FROST IN THE FORECAST OR YOUR TUBERS WILL TURN TO MUSH.
5. SHAKE OFF THE MUD AND DUST THE TUBERS WITH GARDEN SULPHUR.
6. YOU CAN DIVIDE THE TUBERS NOW WITH A SHARP KNIFE, ENSURING THERE IS ONE EYE ON THE TUBER OR YOU CAN WAIT UNTIL SPRING TO DIVIDE.
7. PUT THE TUBERS INTO A CARDBOARD BOX OR CRATE WITH DAMPENED PEAT MOSS (NOT TOO WET OR THE TUBERS WILL ROT).
8. STORE IN A COOL SPOT IN THE BASEMENT UNTIL MARCH.
9. POT UP IN EARLY MARCH AND YOU WILL HAVE BEAUTIFUL DAHLIAS AGAIN NEXT YEAR!
1. ALLOW THE DAHLIA TO BE BLACKENED BY FROST.
2. CUT DOWN TO ABOUT 4 INCHES FROM THE GROUND.
3. LIFT THE TUBERS WITH A GARDEN FORK SO AS NOT TO CUT THE TUBER.
4. ALLOW THE TUBERS TO CURE (DRY) A FEW DAYS ON THE GROUND. MAKE SURE THERE IS NO FROST IN THE FORECAST OR YOUR TUBERS WILL TURN TO MUSH.
5. SHAKE OFF THE MUD AND DUST THE TUBERS WITH GARDEN SULPHUR.
6. YOU CAN DIVIDE THE TUBERS NOW WITH A SHARP KNIFE, ENSURING THERE IS ONE EYE ON THE TUBER OR YOU CAN WAIT UNTIL SPRING TO DIVIDE.
7. PUT THE TUBERS INTO A CARDBOARD BOX OR CRATE WITH DAMPENED PEAT MOSS (NOT TOO WET OR THE TUBERS WILL ROT).
8. STORE IN A COOL SPOT IN THE BASEMENT UNTIL MARCH.
9. POT UP IN EARLY MARCH AND YOU WILL HAVE BEAUTIFUL DAHLIAS AGAIN NEXT YEAR!
Friday, September 28, 2012
FALL LAWN CARE
FALL LAWN CARE
1. APPLY FALL FERTILIZER NOW, IF NOT OVERSEEDING YOUR LAWN.
2. IF OVERSEEDING – MOW GRASS TO ABOUT 1 ½” – OVERSEEDING IS SEEDING OVER EXISTING GRASS TO FILL IN BARE PATCHES AND THICKEN UP THE GRASS TO CHOKE OUT WEEDS.
3. BAG OR RAKE UP ALL THE GRASS CLIPPINGS.
4. DO A CORE AERATION – DON’T JUST PUT ON YOUR GOLF SHOES AND WALK OVER THE LAWN!!!
5. SPREAD ABOUT ¼” OF SCREENED TOPSOIL OR PEAT MOSS AND RAKE IT IN. I LIKE USING PEAT MOSS AS IT HAS NO WEEDS. WHEN USING PEAT MOSS, PUT IT IN A WHEELBARROW OR MUCK BUCKET AND ADD WATER UNTIL IT BECOMES LIKE A THICK SOUP. THEN APPLY IT TO YOUR LAWN AND RAKE IT IN.
6. CHOOSE A GOOD QUALITY OF GRASS SEED PREFERABLY WITH A LOT OF DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF FESCUE, RYE AND KENTUCKY BLUE GRASS.
7. BROADCAST THE SEED WITH A GRASS OR FERTILIZER SPREADER.
8. USE A ROLLER OR TAMP THE GRASS SEED DOWN WITH YOUR RAKE. IT MUST COME IN CONTACT WITH THE SOIL TO GERMINATE.
9. WATER.
10. DORMANT SEEDING IS DONE MID TO LATE OCTOBER, JUST BEFORE THE FIRST SNOW. SEEDS WILL LAY DORMANT UNDER THE SOIL AND GERMINATE IN EARLY SPRING WITH THE HEAT AND MOISTURE.
11. IN EARLY SPRING THE SEEDS WILL GERMINATE WITH THE HEAT AND MOISTURE AND CHOKE OUT THE WEEDS!
12. ENJOY A BEAUTIFUL GREEN, THICK LAWN!
1. APPLY FALL FERTILIZER NOW, IF NOT OVERSEEDING YOUR LAWN.
2. IF OVERSEEDING – MOW GRASS TO ABOUT 1 ½” – OVERSEEDING IS SEEDING OVER EXISTING GRASS TO FILL IN BARE PATCHES AND THICKEN UP THE GRASS TO CHOKE OUT WEEDS.
3. BAG OR RAKE UP ALL THE GRASS CLIPPINGS.
4. DO A CORE AERATION – DON’T JUST PUT ON YOUR GOLF SHOES AND WALK OVER THE LAWN!!!
5. SPREAD ABOUT ¼” OF SCREENED TOPSOIL OR PEAT MOSS AND RAKE IT IN. I LIKE USING PEAT MOSS AS IT HAS NO WEEDS. WHEN USING PEAT MOSS, PUT IT IN A WHEELBARROW OR MUCK BUCKET AND ADD WATER UNTIL IT BECOMES LIKE A THICK SOUP. THEN APPLY IT TO YOUR LAWN AND RAKE IT IN.
6. CHOOSE A GOOD QUALITY OF GRASS SEED PREFERABLY WITH A LOT OF DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF FESCUE, RYE AND KENTUCKY BLUE GRASS.
7. BROADCAST THE SEED WITH A GRASS OR FERTILIZER SPREADER.
8. USE A ROLLER OR TAMP THE GRASS SEED DOWN WITH YOUR RAKE. IT MUST COME IN CONTACT WITH THE SOIL TO GERMINATE.
9. WATER.
10. DORMANT SEEDING IS DONE MID TO LATE OCTOBER, JUST BEFORE THE FIRST SNOW. SEEDS WILL LAY DORMANT UNDER THE SOIL AND GERMINATE IN EARLY SPRING WITH THE HEAT AND MOISTURE.
11. IN EARLY SPRING THE SEEDS WILL GERMINATE WITH THE HEAT AND MOISTURE AND CHOKE OUT THE WEEDS!
12. ENJOY A BEAUTIFUL GREEN, THICK LAWN!
Thursday, September 06, 2012
Arlene’s Homemade Squirrel Repellent
Fill a 1 ½ - 2 qt. saucepan with water and heat to boiling. Peel and chop an onion and two jalapeno peppers into small pieces and add to boiling water. Add 1 Tablespoon each of paprika and cayenne pepper to the mix. Stir and simmer for 15 – 25 minutes. Let the mixture cool. Pour the mixture through a strainer into a bowl. Pour the strained mixture into a spray bottle. Spray the plant or the area where you have planted the bulbs. Re-spray after a rain. As an added deterrent, sprinkle cayenne pepper and paprika over the area.
Wednesday, August 15, 2012
Container Gardening by Arlene
Arlene’s Container Gardening Tips
Container gardening can be a lot of fun and very rewarding. Here are some tips I’ve gathered through the years to be successful:
Choosing the right container
SIZE MATTERS!!!
TIP - Choose a container that is at least 12” in diameter. Smaller containers dry out very quickly in hot weather. The container must also have drainage holes to allow for moisture to drain out if over-watering occurs or if they are out in rain.
There are many different containers to choose from to hang or place on the ground. There are wire baskets with a coco liner or lined with sphagnum moss; plastic, fiberglass, self-watering; glazed, terra cotta, metal and wooden containers.
TIP - When using clay or terra cotta, soak the container in a tub of water until the air bubbles subside before you pot them up, to avoid drying out the soil. Also, place a saucer of water underneath to keep them moist.
TIP – When using baskets lined with either a coco liner or sphagnum, put a plastic liner punched with holes, over-top of the coco or sphagnum liner and then plant your plants. The basket will not dry out so quickly.
Darker coloured containers attract the heat more than lighter coloured ones, so keep that in mind if you plan on spending weekends away. Use light coloured containers for the sunny spots.
Choosing the right soil
A peat based soil less mix dries out more quickly than a quality potting soil. Choose a quality potting soil specific for containers or hanging baskets that contain key nutrients. Consider using a product such as Soil Moist that contains water crystals that hold water and release it into the soil as it dries. Soil Moist is added to the soil before you plant. Add compost to enrich your soil.
TIP – Don’t use soil from the garden as it will compact, be heavy and may contain insect or disease.
Choosing the right plants
Choose the right plants for the conditions (sun or shade). If you get away on the weekends and have your hanging baskets or containers in hot dry sun, choose annuals such as Geraniums, Strawflower, Portulaca, Million bells, Osteospermum, Cosmos, Lantana. Scaevola, Marigolds, Heliotrope, Salvia, Celosia, Verbena, Gazania, Ice Plant, or Castor Bean, to name a few, that will tolerate a lot of hot and dry.
Keeping your plants healthy
Fertilizing
Add compost to enrich the soil before you plant or use a slow release fertilizer that breaks down with heat and moisture. Some slow release fertilizers last for up to four months. If you haven’t improved the soil, you may also want to use a water soluble fertilizer or an organic fertilizer such as sea weed or fish emulsion to supplement until the slow release fertilizer starts breaking down.
Deadheading
Remove the spent flowers by removing the flower head right back to the stem to keep the plant from going to seed.
Checking for insects and disease
Check for insects and disease regularly and deal with the problem immediately before the plants gets stressed or destroyed.
Watering
Water your hanging baskets or containers slowly to insure the entire container is moist. For hanging baskets, you may want to submerge the basket in a bucket of water until air bubbles subside. This way you know the basket is very well watered.
TIP – The feeder roots will gravitate to the outside of the container so make sure the soil at the edges of the container is well watered.
Water bulbs are available to fill and leave in your container when you are away. I have also filled 2 litre plastic bottles, punched a few holes in them and turned them upside down in a large to container to drip water slowly into the soil when I am away for a few days.
Mulching
The use of mulch in containers also helps keep in moisture and keep the soil cool.
TIP – if you are going to be away for a number of days and are not able to have someone come in to water while you are away, you might consider moving smaller baskets and containers inside or into a shady, sheltered area outside to keep them from drying out in the hot sun.
TIP – If you have planted perennials or shrubs in containers for the summer, make sure you remove them from the container and get them planted into the ground by the middle to the end of September to insure they settle in before winter.
These are some tips that I have used over the years to keep my hanging baskets and containers looking in top shape all summer long! If you keep your plants healthy, they will be able to survive on their own through periods of both drought and a lot of rain!
Thursday, August 02, 2012
Arlene’s Mid-Summer Tomato Tips
Arlene’s Mid-Summer Tomato Tips
This is the time of year we should be starting to enjoy some tasty, home-grown tomatoes.
Here are some tips:
Don’t forget – Tomatoes are calcium lovers, so save your eggshells to work in around your plants or add bonemeal to prevent the Blossom End Rot (the black end on the tomato).
Water the soil around the tomato plant and not overtop.
If you are a smoker, wash your hands with soap and water thoroughly before handling the tomato plants to prevent the Tomato Mosaic Virus. This virus produces distorted leaves and blotches on the fruit.
Remove all the suckers (the stems that grow out between the main and side shoots).
Once the tomato plant has set fruit, remove all the stems underneath the fruit.
Fertilize with an organic fertilizer made by Bio Fert Manufacturing in B.C.. It is made up of plant extracts, alfalfa, kelp and soy bean mulch, natural potash, blood meal and fish emulsion (without the smell!!!).
You will have a rich tasting, larger tomato with a longer shelf life!
This is the time of year we should be starting to enjoy some tasty, home-grown tomatoes.
Here are some tips:
Don’t forget – Tomatoes are calcium lovers, so save your eggshells to work in around your plants or add bonemeal to prevent the Blossom End Rot (the black end on the tomato).
Water the soil around the tomato plant and not overtop.
If you are a smoker, wash your hands with soap and water thoroughly before handling the tomato plants to prevent the Tomato Mosaic Virus. This virus produces distorted leaves and blotches on the fruit.
Remove all the suckers (the stems that grow out between the main and side shoots).
Once the tomato plant has set fruit, remove all the stems underneath the fruit.
Fertilize with an organic fertilizer made by Bio Fert Manufacturing in B.C.. It is made up of plant extracts, alfalfa, kelp and soy bean mulch, natural potash, blood meal and fish emulsion (without the smell!!!).
You will have a rich tasting, larger tomato with a longer shelf life!
Friday, July 20, 2012
Arlene’s Favourite Gardening Poem!
Taken from the 2003 Prairie Garden Booklet
When I first read this poem in the 2003 Prairie Garden Booklet, I laughed myself silly as I could so relate! It’s called My Wife The Gardener. Jensen’s carries the Praire Garden!
She dug the plot on Monday
The soil was rich and fine
She forgot to thaw out dinner
So we went out to dine.
She planted roses Tuesday
She says they are a must
They really are quite lovely
But she forgot to dust.
On Wednesday it was daisies
They opened with the sun
All white and pinks and yellows
But the laundry wasn’t done.
The poppies came on Thursday
A bright and cheery red
I guess she really was engrossed,
but, never made the bed.
It was Dahlias on Friday
In colours she adores
It never bothered her at all
All the crumbs upon the floors
I hired a maid on Saturday
My week was now complete
My wife can garden all she wants
The house will still be neat.
It’s nearly lunchtime Sunday
And, I can’t find the maid
Oh no! I don’t believe it
She’s out there with a spade!!!
Monday, April 30, 2012
Spring Gardening Tips
Spring Gardening Tips
If you have covered your perennials or roses with leaves or flax straw (which is a great winter protection for your plants), now is the time to be taking it away. Do it slowly. Remove it from the area directly around your plants to allow the plants to breathe. Don’t put it too far out of reach as you may have to bring it back as protection if our temperatures drop too far below zero at night. The emerging perennials will be able to endure a lot of cold but remember it’s still too early to be planting out newly purchased perennials. Jensen’s carries some beautiful perennials very hardy to our area. Keep in mind if you really like a perennial, that requires sun, and you have no room left in a sunny spot, all perennials will grow in the shade. They may not grow as large and they may not flower the way they would in sun, or have smaller blooms, but, they WILL grow. Don’t deprive yourself of a “Must-Have” perennial. Give it a try. You may be pleasantly surprised!
Also, if there are areas of your garden where the soil needs amending, now is the time to enhance the soil to get the area ready for planting. Drop in for a soil tester to find out if your soil is too acidic or alkaline. In our clay soil, peat moss is a good product to use as to increase the acidity level in our alkaline soil and it also improves the texture and provides for improved drainage. Clay soil tends to be very compact and makes it difficult for roots to grow. Empty the peat moss into a wheelbarrow or muck bucket and add water. Mix it until it is thick and resembles soil and then dig it into the area. It is much easier to work with and it won’t be flying away to your neighbours when you start to dig it in. Compost, mushroom manure and sheep manure are also excellent products to use for soil amendment. If you have an area where your perennials require a lot of acid in the soil and you have evergreens in the yard, save your evergreen clippings and place them around that area.
If your soil is too acid, use a Dolomite Lime to increase the alkaline level. It is more finely ground and will break down faster in the soil.
Also, if you have recently removed an evergreen tree from the yard, that area will need a Lime to enable grass to grow. This is the perfect time of year to get the area ready for seeding as most lawns prefer a soil that is nearly neutral; in the range of a PH level of 6.5 – 7.2 (PH 7.0 is neutral).
The majority of plants grow best in a PH level of 6.5 – 7.2 as well.
Tomatoes enjoy a handful of Dolomite Lime when planting and periodically throughout the grow season to discourage Blossom End Rot (the black end on the Tomato).
Stay tuned next time for more “Spring Gardening Tips”
Arlene Wheeler
If you have covered your perennials or roses with leaves or flax straw (which is a great winter protection for your plants), now is the time to be taking it away. Do it slowly. Remove it from the area directly around your plants to allow the plants to breathe. Don’t put it too far out of reach as you may have to bring it back as protection if our temperatures drop too far below zero at night. The emerging perennials will be able to endure a lot of cold but remember it’s still too early to be planting out newly purchased perennials. Jensen’s carries some beautiful perennials very hardy to our area. Keep in mind if you really like a perennial, that requires sun, and you have no room left in a sunny spot, all perennials will grow in the shade. They may not grow as large and they may not flower the way they would in sun, or have smaller blooms, but, they WILL grow. Don’t deprive yourself of a “Must-Have” perennial. Give it a try. You may be pleasantly surprised!
Also, if there are areas of your garden where the soil needs amending, now is the time to enhance the soil to get the area ready for planting. Drop in for a soil tester to find out if your soil is too acidic or alkaline. In our clay soil, peat moss is a good product to use as to increase the acidity level in our alkaline soil and it also improves the texture and provides for improved drainage. Clay soil tends to be very compact and makes it difficult for roots to grow. Empty the peat moss into a wheelbarrow or muck bucket and add water. Mix it until it is thick and resembles soil and then dig it into the area. It is much easier to work with and it won’t be flying away to your neighbours when you start to dig it in. Compost, mushroom manure and sheep manure are also excellent products to use for soil amendment. If you have an area where your perennials require a lot of acid in the soil and you have evergreens in the yard, save your evergreen clippings and place them around that area.
If your soil is too acid, use a Dolomite Lime to increase the alkaline level. It is more finely ground and will break down faster in the soil.
Also, if you have recently removed an evergreen tree from the yard, that area will need a Lime to enable grass to grow. This is the perfect time of year to get the area ready for seeding as most lawns prefer a soil that is nearly neutral; in the range of a PH level of 6.5 – 7.2 (PH 7.0 is neutral).
The majority of plants grow best in a PH level of 6.5 – 7.2 as well.
Tomatoes enjoy a handful of Dolomite Lime when planting and periodically throughout the grow season to discourage Blossom End Rot (the black end on the Tomato).
Stay tuned next time for more “Spring Gardening Tips”
Arlene Wheeler
Friday, April 20, 2012
Slippery, Slimy Slugs, Yuck!
This is the time of year our hearts and minds turn to gardening and the great outdoors! We live in Winnipeg, wait 5 minutes and the weather will change!
Think of some of the problem areas of your garden instead and this is the time of year to deal with them.
Slugs are slimy creatures resembling snails that come up from the ground at night and make holes in your beautiful plants (they really love hosta), leaving a slimy white trail in their wake.
If you have had a problem with slugs in a particular area of your garden, now is the time to get out the fan rake and lightly rake the soil. In giving the area a light raking, it will bring up all the eggs the slugs have laid and you will be providing food for all the birds coming into your yard, while reducing the number of slugs. Often times they love to lay their eggs all along a sidewalk or walkway so rake the soil lightly along these areas. Be careful not to compact the soil by walking on it. Take a long board out to the garden area with you to use to walk on so as not to compact the soil by walking on it. To encourage birds into your garden area, place some drier lint out by a shrub or tree. They will soon find it to help build their nests and will help rid your garden area of slugs at the same time.
Here are a few more tips to rid your garden area of Slugs.
1. Ammonia Spray: Mix 1 part ammonia to 10 parts of water. Spray on slugs in early morning or late at night when they like to come out and do their damage. It does not hurt the plants; however, you should be careful not to spray everywhere as it will kill the good insects as well.
2. Barrier method: Around the base of the plants under attack, right around the stem, use baby powder or talc which will stick to their gummy bodies. They will not go through it, or, if they do, it will kill them eventually. An inch of sand, the coarser the better, like a moat, the sharpness of the grains make it unpleasant to impassable for most slugs. Copper bands apparently cause a shock to slugs. This can be bought in a tape form at most garden centers.
3. Boiling Water: In the very early spring pour boiling water along any hard edge that is in contact with the soil of the bed. This would be like a sidewalk, fence or edging material including large stones or rocks. This will kill the eggs. This can be challenging if you have huge spaces that fit this definition. Apply in areas where there is a lot of moisture or shade where you are having a serious snail colony problem.
4. Egg Shells – Save your egg shells, break them up and add around the plants in your garden that are affected. They will help cut their skin and they will tend to keep away from your plants.
If your slug problems persist, drop into our garden center and pick up some slug bait to rid your garden of the nasty, slimy ones!
Arlene Wheeler
Think of some of the problem areas of your garden instead and this is the time of year to deal with them.
Slugs are slimy creatures resembling snails that come up from the ground at night and make holes in your beautiful plants (they really love hosta), leaving a slimy white trail in their wake.
If you have had a problem with slugs in a particular area of your garden, now is the time to get out the fan rake and lightly rake the soil. In giving the area a light raking, it will bring up all the eggs the slugs have laid and you will be providing food for all the birds coming into your yard, while reducing the number of slugs. Often times they love to lay their eggs all along a sidewalk or walkway so rake the soil lightly along these areas. Be careful not to compact the soil by walking on it. Take a long board out to the garden area with you to use to walk on so as not to compact the soil by walking on it. To encourage birds into your garden area, place some drier lint out by a shrub or tree. They will soon find it to help build their nests and will help rid your garden area of slugs at the same time.
Here are a few more tips to rid your garden area of Slugs.
1. Ammonia Spray: Mix 1 part ammonia to 10 parts of water. Spray on slugs in early morning or late at night when they like to come out and do their damage. It does not hurt the plants; however, you should be careful not to spray everywhere as it will kill the good insects as well.
2. Barrier method: Around the base of the plants under attack, right around the stem, use baby powder or talc which will stick to their gummy bodies. They will not go through it, or, if they do, it will kill them eventually. An inch of sand, the coarser the better, like a moat, the sharpness of the grains make it unpleasant to impassable for most slugs. Copper bands apparently cause a shock to slugs. This can be bought in a tape form at most garden centers.
3. Boiling Water: In the very early spring pour boiling water along any hard edge that is in contact with the soil of the bed. This would be like a sidewalk, fence or edging material including large stones or rocks. This will kill the eggs. This can be challenging if you have huge spaces that fit this definition. Apply in areas where there is a lot of moisture or shade where you are having a serious snail colony problem.
4. Egg Shells – Save your egg shells, break them up and add around the plants in your garden that are affected. They will help cut their skin and they will tend to keep away from your plants.
If your slug problems persist, drop into our garden center and pick up some slug bait to rid your garden of the nasty, slimy ones!
Arlene Wheeler
Friday, November 25, 2011
Sue's First Blog - by Sue the Other Sister!
Well, I decided it was time. It’s only been a year since my dear sister, Tammy asked me to write a blog. With my track record I figure I’m right on schedule. I can hardly believe that it’s time to make the switch from Landscaping to selling Christmas trees.
We’ve been having a lot of fun finishing the last few jobs. The last two weeks have been working at the Youth for Christ Building at Main and Higgins. It absolutely amazes me that you can have so many trades people, trucks and equipment on one site and nobody hits anything. This particular site being down town was the dreaded site of the year. Due to the lack of parking, vehicle and people traffic I was picturing this site as a nightmare. I was pleasantly surprised that everything when extremely well. The trades people and site supervisors have been amazing. All the different trades have worked together with efficiency and grace. There was not a day where I felt we were hindering someone else’s job. Everyone seemed to work together making sure that they were not undoing each other’s work.
We even got a few surprises. Shortly after remarking that I seemed to have a horseshoe stuck in a particular part of my body. This was said because everything on site fell into place just perfectly. From the tree delivery, soil drop offs to the excavator John who helped us out. Mark and Scott actually dug up an old Horseshoe. It looks like it may be from the early to mid 1900’s. It will soon be hanging above our garage door with hopes that it will continue to bring us all more luck.
Well as we wrap up our landscaping season another time is upon us. Yes it is here!!!! I’ve been waiting for this all year. IT’S FINALLY HERE, IT’S FINALLY HERE. It’s time for me to go from the hardhat, safety vest wearing Landscape Girl to...... CRAFT GIRL. Yes that’s right CRAFT GIRL. Instead of thinking about tree planting, semi loads of soil and mountains of Cedar Bark. My head in filling with designs for Outdoor Containers, Center Pieces, and Wreaths, and of course Bow making. So please come by with your containers or ideas and let us help you add some beauty to your Christmas.
Or stop by and pick out the perfect Fresh Christmas Tree. We have an amazing selection of Balsam Fir, Fraser Fir, Noble fir, Nordman Fir and some Manitoba Spruce. You can shop indoors, pick your tree and have us deliver it for free. ( within Winnipeg, Oak Bluff, Sanford or LaSalle )
Have a Happy Christmas Season!!!
Susan Jensen Stubbe
(The Other Sister)
We’ve been having a lot of fun finishing the last few jobs. The last two weeks have been working at the Youth for Christ Building at Main and Higgins. It absolutely amazes me that you can have so many trades people, trucks and equipment on one site and nobody hits anything. This particular site being down town was the dreaded site of the year. Due to the lack of parking, vehicle and people traffic I was picturing this site as a nightmare. I was pleasantly surprised that everything when extremely well. The trades people and site supervisors have been amazing. All the different trades have worked together with efficiency and grace. There was not a day where I felt we were hindering someone else’s job. Everyone seemed to work together making sure that they were not undoing each other’s work.
We even got a few surprises. Shortly after remarking that I seemed to have a horseshoe stuck in a particular part of my body. This was said because everything on site fell into place just perfectly. From the tree delivery, soil drop offs to the excavator John who helped us out. Mark and Scott actually dug up an old Horseshoe. It looks like it may be from the early to mid 1900’s. It will soon be hanging above our garage door with hopes that it will continue to bring us all more luck.
Well as we wrap up our landscaping season another time is upon us. Yes it is here!!!! I’ve been waiting for this all year. IT’S FINALLY HERE, IT’S FINALLY HERE. It’s time for me to go from the hardhat, safety vest wearing Landscape Girl to...... CRAFT GIRL. Yes that’s right CRAFT GIRL. Instead of thinking about tree planting, semi loads of soil and mountains of Cedar Bark. My head in filling with designs for Outdoor Containers, Center Pieces, and Wreaths, and of course Bow making. So please come by with your containers or ideas and let us help you add some beauty to your Christmas.
Or stop by and pick out the perfect Fresh Christmas Tree. We have an amazing selection of Balsam Fir, Fraser Fir, Noble fir, Nordman Fir and some Manitoba Spruce. You can shop indoors, pick your tree and have us deliver it for free. ( within Winnipeg, Oak Bluff, Sanford or LaSalle )
Have a Happy Christmas Season!!!
Susan Jensen Stubbe
(The Other Sister)
Monday, October 31, 2011
Upcycling with Bill Dowie
Download Attachment...Recycling brought to a new level! Upcycling is the lastest garden trend!
For those who were lucky enough to attend our Up-Cycling seminar this September here is the promised PDF file!
If you would like to know more on Upcycling open our attachment and learn more! We will definitely be holding more seminars on Up-Cycling in the spring!
I am hoping to get seminars under way as early as March this year! If anyone has subjects that they would be interested in feel free to contact me at [email protected]
Happy gardening!
Tammy Jensen
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Gardening in busy times!
Well it is 9 pm sunday night. Most people are settled in for the night getting ready for the week. But when you are in the gardening business.........things work a little different! I thought I'd let you all dwell into a day in the life of a Jensen! I'm hoping my staff will all follow suit and do a blog about how it is to work at Jensen's!
I started my day off with a cup of coffee, a wish that I could stay where I was..... all snuggled up, and a drive across town to work. As usual I wasn't the first one there! After working 60 hour weeks for a while you tend to slow down! But once I get moving, watch out! Father's Day and Marathon day typically are a bit slow for us. Well apparently my website is working or something! Because after I decided I would fertilize every single basket and container pot...people started trailing in. So here I am in the middle of the greenhouse with about 150 baskets waiting for fertilizer on the ground! Nobody can get down the aisles, everyone wants help in a completely different area of the garden center! To sum it up CHAOS! So some how I fertilized every single annual basket and annual container, and put them back where they belong!
The rest of the day went fairly smooth! Because I was moving petunia baskets around I got all sticky and extremely dirty! So by the end of the day I looked like a mess! But believe it or not , sweat, dirt and all.........boy did I have fun!
So then, when it is time to go, what do I do? Sit down with my sister who I have not had time to talk with in days. So we catch up, on all the business matters we have not had time to deal with all week. Greenhouse talk, tree talk, watering system talk, how to deal with stress talk!etc. etc. etc! So then I go home..
What do I do then? Go out, cut my lawn, spray Killex for weeds, Round- Up in the area I want to turn into a patio for the swing and fire pit! Repot my flowers into a bigger ceramic pot adding torenia, and yellow sweet potatoe vine.
Finally I crawl into my house...thank my daughter who has been busy cleaning my house for chore money. Spend some time catching up with my daughter, talking on the phone...it's off to bed I go! ...............
Off to bed I go! When I wake hopefully the sun is shining, the ferilizer kicked in, and all is happy! Tammy
I started my day off with a cup of coffee, a wish that I could stay where I was..... all snuggled up, and a drive across town to work. As usual I wasn't the first one there! After working 60 hour weeks for a while you tend to slow down! But once I get moving, watch out! Father's Day and Marathon day typically are a bit slow for us. Well apparently my website is working or something! Because after I decided I would fertilize every single basket and container pot...people started trailing in. So here I am in the middle of the greenhouse with about 150 baskets waiting for fertilizer on the ground! Nobody can get down the aisles, everyone wants help in a completely different area of the garden center! To sum it up CHAOS! So some how I fertilized every single annual basket and annual container, and put them back where they belong!
The rest of the day went fairly smooth! Because I was moving petunia baskets around I got all sticky and extremely dirty! So by the end of the day I looked like a mess! But believe it or not , sweat, dirt and all.........boy did I have fun!
So then, when it is time to go, what do I do? Sit down with my sister who I have not had time to talk with in days. So we catch up, on all the business matters we have not had time to deal with all week. Greenhouse talk, tree talk, watering system talk, how to deal with stress talk!etc. etc. etc! So then I go home..
What do I do then? Go out, cut my lawn, spray Killex for weeds, Round- Up in the area I want to turn into a patio for the swing and fire pit! Repot my flowers into a bigger ceramic pot adding torenia, and yellow sweet potatoe vine.
Finally I crawl into my house...thank my daughter who has been busy cleaning my house for chore money. Spend some time catching up with my daughter, talking on the phone...it's off to bed I go! ...............
Off to bed I go! When I wake hopefully the sun is shining, the ferilizer kicked in, and all is happy! Tammy
Friday, May 27, 2011
When you see someone without a smile give them yours!
Yesterday at the end of a long day I put that up on my staff bulletin board. This weather lately has been crazy to say the least. And not agreeable to Manitoba gardeners. Frost warning, no frost warning, hot summer weather, cold arctic winds, dreary rainy days..... where is our famous Manitoba summer? I'm seeing frustration in my customers, my staff, and feeling it myself. Last night I decided it was time for the season to start in spite of the weather. I came home after a 12 hour day and started digging out weeds and planting perennials and annuals. The first thing I planted was a large 9' high piece of driftwood! Behind it I planted a cup and saucer vine that will grow up the driftwood and create an interesting feature right in my front yard. In front of it I have a summer wine ninebark. The dark color of the ninebark makes the driftwood stand out more! When the flowers bloom on the vine and the ninebark I think it will be gorgeous!
After that I started digging out some unusual weeds that have taken over my rock garden. Roundup would have been easier but working by hand is quicker and more therapeutic! In that bed in front of lovely piece of driftwood I found at Patricia Beach I planted 3 fireworks fountain grass. I figure it will delicately fall over the driftwood! Next I moved on to the herb garden I planted along my garage. I actually made a raised herb garden using some railway ties that were lying around my yard. I put a climbing spinach vine in the middle to grow up my trellis. I put lemon balm(for tea), mint(for mohito`s), rosemary, oregano, and thyme for cooking. Then I crawled into the house, hugged the kids goodnight, and settled in for a good rest before a new day begins! Wishing everyone a good weekend and happy gardening! I would love to hear some gardening stories. If you have an interesting one send it to me. I can post the most interesting one on our blog each week! Tammy Jensen
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Sun, Shrubs, Trees, Soil, Stone, and Flowers galore!
The sun is shining! Spring is finally here! Everytime I look out the window a truck is driving up with a fresh load of shrubs, trees, evergreens, and more! We are in the process of building a new system to display and care for the trees! We also have some very hard working guys potting up truckloads of bareroot trees and shrubs. By tomorrow they will be done, and will start bagging more mulch, riverstone, limestone, shale, soil, and what ever else we can bring them! Jennifer is running around trying to put up signs as quickly as the plants arrive. Chelsey is back for her second year running out to greet all the customers!Laura is taking care of all the annuals and baskets in the greenhouse. Karl AKA Mr Jensen is busy planning and designing the outdoor shrub area. Drop by and check out all the excitement. It may not be organized quite yet, but the plants are here just waiting for a new home. I now have a PDF version of our catalogues available online. There is the shrub and tree plant list, and the perennial list. Just email me at [email protected] and I will send it to you! Happy gardening!~ Tammy
Friday, April 08, 2011
Chuck Manigione and the Greenhouse by Jen
Download Attachment...
I am truly hopeful and optimistic that winter is over. In the car last night, driving my daughter to her piano lesson, we decided to listen to "Chuck" (Mangione). He had been introduced to my kids as a way of remembering my high school days.
It was a beautiful evening, still sunny, and we had the sun roof open. "Feel So Good" came on. It starts slow, like the music is just waking up. Now I start thinking about spring, warm sunshine and gardening. Nature is returning to all her glory. It's amazing how music can make connections.
Listen and see what it makes you think of. And....come by and visit us on Saturday. We have seminars and coffee. Stroll around the greenhouse. I will be there watering the flowers.
Jen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RID-gqSw85o&feature=related Click on this link to hear Chuck Manigione - Feel So Good!
It was a beautiful evening, still sunny, and we had the sun roof open. "Feel So Good" came on. It starts slow, like the music is just waking up. Now I start thinking about spring, warm sunshine and gardening. Nature is returning to all her glory. It's amazing how music can make connections.
Listen and see what it makes you think of. And....come by and visit us on Saturday. We have seminars and coffee. Stroll around the greenhouse. I will be there watering the flowers.
Jen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RID-gqSw85o&feature=related Click on this link to hear Chuck Manigione - Feel So Good!
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
My name is Boomer by Boomer the Garden Center Dog
Hi! My name is Boomer and I am the garden center dog. This is my first blog. I follow Sue around the garden center from January till April. I am the most wonderful and beautiful golden retriever.Oh yes, and the best behaved dog! I love being spoiled and eating the plants in the greenhouse! The grasses are the best! My favorite grass is the Fireworks Fountain Gras
s. They get real upset when I eat that because it's brand new or something. They all look the same to me! They are so tasty! I do lots of work here greeting people, chewing pots, walking on plant tables,and digging in the mud in the potting room. I also work very hard chasing away the bunnies in the back nursery area. Please come and see me in 
the greenhouse! If you find me too big and friendly I can sit in the lunch room(yummy) and check out the lunches! Please come visit me and check out the wonderful greenhouse. See you soon!
ps. bring doogies cookies
s. They get real upset when I eat that because it's brand new or something. They all look the same to me! They are so tasty! I do lots of work here greeting people, chewing pots, walking on plant tables,and digging in the mud in the potting room. I also work very hard chasing away the bunnies in the back nursery area. Please come and see me in the greenhouse! If you find me too big and friendly I can sit in the lunch room(yummy) and check out the lunches! Please come visit me and check out the wonderful greenhouse. See you soon!ps. bring doogies cookies
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Container gardening at Jensen's! by Jennifer Fletcher
OKAY! I am writing a blog.....
Back in January, I wanted to talk about the new annuals and combinations for the hanging baskets.
I was ALONE with my thoughts!
One Saturday afternoon, I watched a P. Allen Smith tv show (the spokesperson for Proven Winners). He took three pots
in different sizes and planted a container landscape. He believes that you should plant different plants in each pot,
with one color that unifies them.
For example:
First pot: Superbells Dreamsicle
Second pot: Coleus Sedona
Third pot: Toffee Twist Grass
This example would have a orange plant in each pot with a mixture of annuals. What an idea! I will store that one in the
back of my brain.
Then I went on a winter holiday. Cruising from Los Angeles to Puerto Vallarta. Did you know that Bird of Paradise
blooms in late January in California landscapes? Well...that definitely messed up my "Prairie Gardener" brain.
Back to the cold and "Jennifer, I can't talk about the hanging baskets until I see the flowers!"
Okay, I was still on my own with my thoughts - busy organizing, painting and laminating signs.
Now, the plants have come. The baskets are done and we will keep working on the pots. On a sunny day, you have to wear shorts in the greenhouse. In a few short weeks we will move outside. I can't wait. Stop by the garden centre if you like. Smell the flowers. I would be happy to help you plan your containers.
Because.....SPRING IS ON ITS WAY!!!!!
By Jennifer Fletcher
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